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<p>[QUOTE="Oooh_look2001, post: 7881014, member: 121930"]So I wanted to see why the blue color never appeared on the penny so I did one rough test. I am SOO sorry for doing this but I was really curious. So I did this in 2 ways: one was burning (Im so sorry please don’t come after me) and the other was more like a list or a thing where my best looking copper pennies from fresh looking to almost a corroded green or red (Didn’t have any that had patina on them so i went with one that had an almost chocolate color). So that one copper penny that had to be burned needed to be cleaned from its milk chocolate brown color so i put 60% conc. Acetic acid and non-iodized table salt. I search online that the acid and the salt reacted to form sodium acetate and hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid) but this was from a website for children and their fun, interactive experiments. After the cleaned, almost unnatural looking, and pinkish orange color was present on the penny, I washed it with tap water to get rid of any aftermath products. I then rubbed it with a moist cloth to get anything that was still stuck. I then heated it until it reached the point where it was hot enough to react with the oxygen in the air to form a thin layer of copper oxide for the Thin-Film Interference Effect to happen. Simply, I think it is where an thin layer of a certain chemical is thin enough to interact with different wavelengths of white light. I did this until the penny turned blue and I expected this in my hypothesis because I heated copper before. Then I was confused because why didn’t this happen to room-temperature, environment toning. I read on a website to soothe my curiosity that the wavelength of the light reflected back towards me was dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer so maybe that environmental toning never got too thick or thin enough to reflect blue. Anyway my fingers hurt and here are the pictures:</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1358973[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1358975[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>The one on the bottom represented similar toning to my altered penny when my altered penny was just a penny. I have multiple 1973-D pennies that looked almost identical to my original, now altered, penny. (So in a way, I did surgery to 1 of the nontuplets [now octuplets] I had). I am REALLY SORRY that I damaged an average copper cent. In my opinion, this penny does look more gorgeous and will have sentimental value to me, but you can criticize it if you want. Anyway that is all the interest I will have for 2 months I’ll see you later!!</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]1358982[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Picture of “Grading the Color of Copper Coins” by The Spruce Crafts. url:<a href="https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/copper-color-grading-768388" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/copper-color-grading-768388" rel="nofollow">https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/copper-color-grading-768388</a>[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Oooh_look2001, post: 7881014, member: 121930"]So I wanted to see why the blue color never appeared on the penny so I did one rough test. I am SOO sorry for doing this but I was really curious. So I did this in 2 ways: one was burning (Im so sorry please don’t come after me) and the other was more like a list or a thing where my best looking copper pennies from fresh looking to almost a corroded green or red (Didn’t have any that had patina on them so i went with one that had an almost chocolate color). So that one copper penny that had to be burned needed to be cleaned from its milk chocolate brown color so i put 60% conc. Acetic acid and non-iodized table salt. I search online that the acid and the salt reacted to form sodium acetate and hydrogen chloride (hydrochloric acid) but this was from a website for children and their fun, interactive experiments. After the cleaned, almost unnatural looking, and pinkish orange color was present on the penny, I washed it with tap water to get rid of any aftermath products. I then rubbed it with a moist cloth to get anything that was still stuck. I then heated it until it reached the point where it was hot enough to react with the oxygen in the air to form a thin layer of copper oxide for the Thin-Film Interference Effect to happen. Simply, I think it is where an thin layer of a certain chemical is thin enough to interact with different wavelengths of white light. I did this until the penny turned blue and I expected this in my hypothesis because I heated copper before. Then I was confused because why didn’t this happen to room-temperature, environment toning. I read on a website to soothe my curiosity that the wavelength of the light reflected back towards me was dependent on the thickness of the oxide layer so maybe that environmental toning never got too thick or thin enough to reflect blue. Anyway my fingers hurt and here are the pictures: [ATTACH=full]1358973[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]1358975[/ATTACH] The one on the bottom represented similar toning to my altered penny when my altered penny was just a penny. I have multiple 1973-D pennies that looked almost identical to my original, now altered, penny. (So in a way, I did surgery to 1 of the nontuplets [now octuplets] I had). I am REALLY SORRY that I damaged an average copper cent. In my opinion, this penny does look more gorgeous and will have sentimental value to me, but you can criticize it if you want. Anyway that is all the interest I will have for 2 months I’ll see you later!! [ATTACH=full]1358982[/ATTACH] Picture of “Grading the Color of Copper Coins” by The Spruce Crafts. url:[URL]https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/copper-color-grading-768388[/URL][/QUOTE]
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