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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Collect89, post: 1631936, member: 15445&quot;]Perhaps I should comment for the OP on how these particular photos were taken.</p><p><br /></p><p>Camera is a standard Canon PowerShot SD1300 IS point &amp; shoot which was set up as follows:</p><p><br /></p><p>Flash: off</p><p>ISO: standard 400</p><p>Timer: set for 2-seconds</p><p>Lighting type: set to Fluorescent</p><p>Zoom: none</p><p>Resolution: large 12 MP 4000 x 3000</p><p>It is not necessary to manually enable the macro feature on my Cannon point &amp; shoot camera.&nbsp; I&#039;ve got the focusing system set to automatically focus on the center of the field of view.</p><p><br /></p><p>The coin slab was set on my desk at a slight angle (~10-degrees).&nbsp; The ceiling lighting is about 2 meters above the table.&nbsp; The ceiling lighting consists of a few fluorescent light fixtures.&nbsp; No other lighting (Tungsten or day light) was used.&nbsp; As a rule you should not mix lighting types when taking a photo. </p><p><br /></p><p>The camera was hand-held &amp; positioned about 0.4 meters above the table.&nbsp; The shot was essentially straight down onto the coin but positioned so that the glare from any one of the ceiling lamps was only on the plastic (and not affecting the slab label or coin areas).&nbsp; My elbow(s) were touching the table in an attempt to steady the camera.&nbsp; When the camera was positioned where the image looked nice, the shutter release was pressed (slowly).&nbsp; By pressing the shutter release slowly, the camera automatically set its focus onto the coin prior to taking the picture.&nbsp; Since the timer was set to 2-seconds, the camera delayed taking the photo a couple seconds when the camera was being hand-held as still as possible.&nbsp; I only had to take one photo because the image looked good in the camera&#039;s view finder.&nbsp; Often with copper coins, I find it necessary to take 2-3 images with different lighting reflecting from the coin &amp; then later determine which one image does the coin justice.&nbsp; [If you&#039;re seriously taking photos then you may hook-up a laptop &amp; really review the images while you are setting-up the shot].</p><p><br /></p><p>Once the image was taken, it was edited using Microsoft Picture Manager.&nbsp; Picture Manager was used to rotate the image and crop it to the dimensions of the slab.&nbsp; Picture Manager was used to compress the file size to something less than 270 K.&nbsp; Sometimes, the photo editor is useful to correct the color, saturation, and compress the image file.&nbsp; When extensive photo editing is required I personally use a different photo editor purchased from Adobe.&nbsp; You can use whatever photo editor you have available.&nbsp; If your colors look odd, then try the &quot;instant fix&quot; feature in your photo editor or you can adjust the lighting settings in your camera. </p><p><br /></p><p>There are several nuances &amp; sometimes significant changes to this procedure that work well with certain coin types.&nbsp; Adjust this process for proofs, cameos, toned, dull, shiny, copper, silver, etc.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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