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<p>[QUOTE="65GT350, post: 196514, member: 7635"]I like x times face. That way you can't get messed up on the math and it creates less questions from the seller. In Speedy's example he is paying 9x face for dimes, 6x face for quarters and 7x face for halves. When I buy coins I buy them for bullion value, it makes the transaction easier ($40.35* 8= $322.80) . In reality the circulated stuff is bullion unless it is a key coin and key coins are a rare find in non collectors hoards. </p><p><br /></p><p>That doesn't mean that I just add up and buy, If the guy has Walkers or SLQ or Barbers I would go through those quickly looking for key dates and make a separate offer for those coins But every 1938 Walker that I have seen has not been a D. </p><p><br /></p><p>You should also put a value on your time. If you are going to sit there with him and catalog each coin you should deduct x amount for the x hours spent from your offer.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="65GT350, post: 196514, member: 7635"]I like x times face. That way you can't get messed up on the math and it creates less questions from the seller. In Speedy's example he is paying 9x face for dimes, 6x face for quarters and 7x face for halves. When I buy coins I buy them for bullion value, it makes the transaction easier ($40.35* 8= $322.80) . In reality the circulated stuff is bullion unless it is a key coin and key coins are a rare find in non collectors hoards. That doesn't mean that I just add up and buy, If the guy has Walkers or SLQ or Barbers I would go through those quickly looking for key dates and make a separate offer for those coins But every 1938 Walker that I have seen has not been a D. You should also put a value on your time. If you are going to sit there with him and catalog each coin you should deduct x amount for the x hours spent from your offer.[/QUOTE]
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I need advice on making an offer
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