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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 26743140, member: 13650"]What an interesting topic. I've been focused on the hobby as an adult for about 17 years now. What's the definition of an expert? This is a broad range. Most here including myself would not claim to be experts on anything but lets face it, most here are much closer to being experts than any random Joe off the street. So I'd implore everyone to give themselves a little credit here! lol </p><p><br /></p><p> There are a lot of people that see a shiny Morgan, real or fake and automatically think it's extremely valuable. Guessing most here would instantly know the difference between an average Morgan in MS-64 and something worth getting excited about, like a raw, worn 93-S. Some could do this across many denominations. That's sort of an expert level I suppose. Depends on how much studying you've done. </p><p> Like I know the 42/1 Mercury dime from Philadelphia is a lot more dramatic and obvious than the "D" version without looking it up as an example. But I don't specialize in mercury dimes. Just have that knowledge. I have a buffalo nickel set so I know the 26-S is the lowest mintage, the 18/7-D and 37-D three legged are the most coveted, while the 13-S type II is the toughest key date of the normal set to get. (Have two). There's a 14/3 and a 38 D/S. The set goes from 1913-1938 and then the Jeffersons begin in 38. All in my head.</p><p><br /></p><p> I dabble in a lot of different stuff. I know the inception and cutoff dates as well as overlap dates for most US coinage in the history of the US as I've worked on a US type for a long time. Not all but most, without a Redbook. Know a lot of key dates and errors to be aware of. </p><p><br /></p><p> Have collected some currency and ancients. </p><p> Know enough to be dangerous there and that's about it. My goal was to at least be able to recognize what I'm looking at when I see ancients because some are so cool. I've mostly achieved that though they're so broad, I would still get stumped on many. If I see a stack of "Wood choppers" or a Black Eagle, I know what they are and dates. </p><p> I'm at a point where I know enough that it takes a lot to impress me if walking around a show or watching auctions. The vast majority of what I see in cases is not that rare but looks nice. If you're looking for something scarce there's a good chance there isn't one example at the show. My last show I noticed a nice gold dollar type II in the corner of a case. It wasn't large or flashy but knowing it's a somewhat scarce, 3 year type I needed in an NGC slab and was the only one I saw there, I bought it.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 26743140, member: 13650"]What an interesting topic. I've been focused on the hobby as an adult for about 17 years now. What's the definition of an expert? This is a broad range. Most here including myself would not claim to be experts on anything but lets face it, most here are much closer to being experts than any random Joe off the street. So I'd implore everyone to give themselves a little credit here! lol There are a lot of people that see a shiny Morgan, real or fake and automatically think it's extremely valuable. Guessing most here would instantly know the difference between an average Morgan in MS-64 and something worth getting excited about, like a raw, worn 93-S. Some could do this across many denominations. That's sort of an expert level I suppose. Depends on how much studying you've done. Like I know the 42/1 Mercury dime from Philadelphia is a lot more dramatic and obvious than the "D" version without looking it up as an example. But I don't specialize in mercury dimes. Just have that knowledge. I have a buffalo nickel set so I know the 26-S is the lowest mintage, the 18/7-D and 37-D three legged are the most coveted, while the 13-S type II is the toughest key date of the normal set to get. (Have two). There's a 14/3 and a 38 D/S. The set goes from 1913-1938 and then the Jeffersons begin in 38. All in my head. I dabble in a lot of different stuff. I know the inception and cutoff dates as well as overlap dates for most US coinage in the history of the US as I've worked on a US type for a long time. Not all but most, without a Redbook. Know a lot of key dates and errors to be aware of. Have collected some currency and ancients. Know enough to be dangerous there and that's about it. My goal was to at least be able to recognize what I'm looking at when I see ancients because some are so cool. I've mostly achieved that though they're so broad, I would still get stumped on many. If I see a stack of "Wood choppers" or a Black Eagle, I know what they are and dates. I'm at a point where I know enough that it takes a lot to impress me if walking around a show or watching auctions. The vast majority of what I see in cases is not that rare but looks nice. If you're looking for something scarce there's a good chance there isn't one example at the show. My last show I noticed a nice gold dollar type II in the corner of a case. It wasn't large or flashy but knowing it's a somewhat scarce, 3 year type I needed in an NGC slab and was the only one I saw there, I bought it.[/QUOTE]
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