I'd ask $10K. I looked up some Unc details 1907s on Heritage a few sold back in 2009 for between 8.5 and 9.5, and there's two PCGS Genuine '07s on ebay for 8.9 and 9.9. I'd want somewhere around $9.5K, so asking 10 gives a little wiggle room, without being too high, imo.
It really all boils down to how fast you want to recoup your investment. If you want out of it quick, figure out what you need to get to make a profit after overhead and go from there. But like I said earlier, even in a details holder that is a nice looking coin, and I don't think it needs to be discounted a whole heck of a lot.
I'm thinking what was meant, was to price it accordingly to a fair and reasonable percentage above what you determined your " BUY " offer was to flip the coin, rather than to have it lay in inventory trying to hit a grand slam. So of course your cost might be something you consider.
Why not? From the dealer perspective of course - not a collector selling to you. I guess I don't understand. Not to side track what from what you are trying to do - a good exercise. The full exercise - should have been as a dealer what would you buy it for and what would you sell it for. Because if you buy to high - to move it you might have to take a loss. Or it sits in inventory for ever. So assuming it looks nice I would be a dealer and bought around $7,000 list it around $11,000. And worse comes to worse you might be able to move it on dealer network for between 9k and 10k.
If you are buying for resale then this just begs the original question because you still have to determine what you think it is worth or could be priced at to know what you would offer for it.
I agree. What you paid is irrelevant to what it can be sold for. Even if you paid $50 does not mean you should sell something for $2000 if the market price is $6000. Its a tough one, as problem coins always are. You could start at AU50 price and see if you get a nibble, but I doubt you will personally. If you do you are doing a good job. I remember being able to buy a 1795 gold piece with minor problems for $2500 back when a problem free example was over $10,000. A few months later the same piece was for sale for $1800. I think that many collectors with this kind of money to spend want problem free pieces, and I cannot blame them. My "guess", (and please take it as such), would be $6500, and I am basing that on nothing but the numbers you have posted. I would be very curious as to what the final price you achieve would be. Chris Btw, if you want to see something to really make you cry, a dealer friend showed me one of these once that the previous owner, (who inherited it), went to make it "prettier" before selling it, and ran a BU coin under a polishing wheel with steel bristles. It "shined" it right up.
It may not matter to some folks, but what I did was this. I put myself in Matt's shoe's. If I were the dealer, I'd never buy that coin unless I thought I could sell it for what I consider minimum profit - a percentage in other words. And I certainly wouldn't pay above what that point would be on the buy side. Nor would I place my asking price above that point on the asking side. In other words, I'd keep it as low as I could so I could recoup my money as fast as possible. And if I left a bit of money on the table by doing that, so be it. I still made what I wanted to make on the deal and that's all that matters.
And that is all that matters. I know if I could turn a quick 35-38% profit and still leave some potential on the table for the buyer, I'd be laying down my walking canes and jumping with joy.
Considerably with a problem coin I call them dreck Only top 5% of coin market is hot right now So to matt I say 150% of your buy price is your final selling price, lowest you should take Ask $11000 or best offer, send it out to several other dealers someone will have a customer who will be joyed by the coin, as well as you enjoying your fat wallet Ps thats one brute.
You know what's interesting is how little wear the coin has for being a previous jewelry piece. Those usually have lots of marks and wear on the higher devices. That's some serious eye candy though.