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<p>[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 2028281, member: 112"]Learning how to correctly identify problem coins is one of the hardest things there is to learn in numismatics. And there really is no single best way to learn how to identify problem coins. But rather a combination of several different methods. </p><p><br /></p><p>Studying coins designated as problem coins, and there are many different kinds of problem coins, by the TPGs is good. Studying coins cleanly graded by the TPGs is good. Studying raw coins is also good, even studying the coins in your pocket change is good. And so is reading. Reading books, articles, and even posts made in coin forums is good. Learning how coins are made and understanding the processes is very good. In general, the more information you can gather on any subject, the better off you will be for it. And that is because before you are done, you still have to learn to tell good information from bad information.</p><p><br /></p><p>But there are some things that you also have to be aware of. For instance, there are many coins, especially older coins, that have been harshly cleaned, but yet are cleanly graded by the TPGs. And there are many coins that have designated as problem coins by the TPGs, that when resubmitted to them, are often cleanly graded. And you also have to be aware that while studying pictures of coins is helpful, it is far, far, better to study those coins in hand. That is because it is extremely common for pictures not to show you everything you need to see. And you also have to be aware that there are many, many, many, different ways to harshly clean a coin. And they all look different. And harshly cleaned coins are just 1 kind of problem coins. There are many other kinds as well.</p><p><br /></p><p>But since the question was about harshly cleaned coins, I'd like to mention just a couple different things. It is also important to learn how to identify what is actual damage to the coin, and what is not. The reason this is so important is because it is extremely common for some to confuse one with the other (even the TPGs are guilty of this, whether by intention or accident). For example, you can look at a coin and see lines, both recessed and raised on that coin. To the untrained eye those lines look like scratches, they may even be scratches. But they might be something else as well. What you think are scratches on the coin might have come directly from the die that minted the coin. And there are several different kinds of lines that can be on the die, each with a completely different cause, and yet they all look like scratches when viewed on the coin, by an untrained eye. Just a few examples of these are die polish lines, die scratches, die wear lines, and lathe lines. And then there are things like tool marks, die gouges, rusty dies, die cracks, just to name a few - and these are all things that are just from the dies themselves. </p><p><br /></p><p>And we haven't even gotten to the coins yet and what can happen to them. The number of things that can happen to a coin are an order of magnitude greater than what can happen to a die. Just imagine what happens when you have a mixture of die issues, and coin issues, all on the same coin. And when these things, either individually or in many different combinations, are viewed on a coin by the untrained eye, it is very, very, easy to mistake one for the other. And then you have to deal with the issue of degree of severity. That's another can of worms all by itself. And this is all just about 1 thing - lines and/or marks on the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Then we have things like luster, or lack of. Dirt and ordinary grime, where it is and where it is not and what each one can mean, and why. Toning, or lack of, and where it is and where it is not, as well as what whether it is AT or NT. Spots, and there are many different kinds of spots, as well as where they are or where they are not, and even where they used to be. Stains - the same as with spots. Polishing, wiping, dipping and over-dipping - the list goes on and on. And all of it has to do with just the 1 problem issue - harsh cleaning. And we haven't even touched on acceptability, or lack of yet.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now a lot of this requisite knowledge is dealt with by allowing the TPGs to do it for you. And a lot of the time that is enough. But what happens when a coin has obviously been harshly cleaned, or otherwise damaged, and yet the TPG cleanly grades it ? What do you do then ? Most of the time, most people won't even be aware of it. But those who truly know coins will be, and that gives them a distinct and marked advantage over those who are not.</p><p><br /></p><p>Yes, there is much to learn. And even the learning of it is not easy.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="GDJMSP, post: 2028281, member: 112"]Learning how to correctly identify problem coins is one of the hardest things there is to learn in numismatics. And there really is no single best way to learn how to identify problem coins. But rather a combination of several different methods. Studying coins designated as problem coins, and there are many different kinds of problem coins, by the TPGs is good. Studying coins cleanly graded by the TPGs is good. Studying raw coins is also good, even studying the coins in your pocket change is good. And so is reading. Reading books, articles, and even posts made in coin forums is good. Learning how coins are made and understanding the processes is very good. In general, the more information you can gather on any subject, the better off you will be for it. And that is because before you are done, you still have to learn to tell good information from bad information. But there are some things that you also have to be aware of. For instance, there are many coins, especially older coins, that have been harshly cleaned, but yet are cleanly graded by the TPGs. And there are many coins that have designated as problem coins by the TPGs, that when resubmitted to them, are often cleanly graded. And you also have to be aware that while studying pictures of coins is helpful, it is far, far, better to study those coins in hand. That is because it is extremely common for pictures not to show you everything you need to see. And you also have to be aware that there are many, many, many, different ways to harshly clean a coin. And they all look different. And harshly cleaned coins are just 1 kind of problem coins. There are many other kinds as well. But since the question was about harshly cleaned coins, I'd like to mention just a couple different things. It is also important to learn how to identify what is actual damage to the coin, and what is not. The reason this is so important is because it is extremely common for some to confuse one with the other (even the TPGs are guilty of this, whether by intention or accident). For example, you can look at a coin and see lines, both recessed and raised on that coin. To the untrained eye those lines look like scratches, they may even be scratches. But they might be something else as well. What you think are scratches on the coin might have come directly from the die that minted the coin. And there are several different kinds of lines that can be on the die, each with a completely different cause, and yet they all look like scratches when viewed on the coin, by an untrained eye. Just a few examples of these are die polish lines, die scratches, die wear lines, and lathe lines. And then there are things like tool marks, die gouges, rusty dies, die cracks, just to name a few - and these are all things that are just from the dies themselves. And we haven't even gotten to the coins yet and what can happen to them. The number of things that can happen to a coin are an order of magnitude greater than what can happen to a die. Just imagine what happens when you have a mixture of die issues, and coin issues, all on the same coin. And when these things, either individually or in many different combinations, are viewed on a coin by the untrained eye, it is very, very, easy to mistake one for the other. And then you have to deal with the issue of degree of severity. That's another can of worms all by itself. And this is all just about 1 thing - lines and/or marks on the coin. Then we have things like luster, or lack of. Dirt and ordinary grime, where it is and where it is not and what each one can mean, and why. Toning, or lack of, and where it is and where it is not, as well as what whether it is AT or NT. Spots, and there are many different kinds of spots, as well as where they are or where they are not, and even where they used to be. Stains - the same as with spots. Polishing, wiping, dipping and over-dipping - the list goes on and on. And all of it has to do with just the 1 problem issue - harsh cleaning. And we haven't even touched on acceptability, or lack of yet. Now a lot of this requisite knowledge is dealt with by allowing the TPGs to do it for you. And a lot of the time that is enough. But what happens when a coin has obviously been harshly cleaned, or otherwise damaged, and yet the TPG cleanly grades it ? What do you do then ? Most of the time, most people won't even be aware of it. But those who truly know coins will be, and that gives them a distinct and marked advantage over those who are not. Yes, there is much to learn. And even the learning of it is not easy.[/QUOTE]
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