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How to tell 1957-P Proof Set from 1957-P Mint pack
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<p>[QUOTE="hic, post: 2789013, member: 88523"]hi - i'd like to add, for me, the REAL question, is how to tell if the OLDER coins ever really came from original u.s. mint sets.... </p><p><br /></p><p>how would i be able to tell if the "ORIGINAL" (say from the early 40's or prior to 1955) coins had been removed and replaced with cleaned or "dipped" coins......</p><p><br /></p><p>all proof "sets" prior to 1950 are virtually all in plastic "cases" these days - no original packing whatsoever.... so, as these are "hand" assembled - (by hands OTHER then official "u.s. mint" hands) unless you can somehow TRUST the seller - you don't really know what you're getting......</p><p><br /></p><p>and while there's no denying a proof coin when you see one - the issue gets much more muddled when discussing actual MINT (uncirculated as opposed to proof) sets - many official "uncirculated" <b><i><u>sets</u></i></b> (prior to 1960) were shipped in cardboard with holes cut out to hold the coins (sorta like those old blue whitman folders we use today) again though - how does one tell if the coins in these sets, are "original" coins that were "originally" packaged by "official" u.s. mint employees? and does it really matter?</p><p><br /></p><p>having all coins in the SAME "pilofilm" package, took the guess work out...that is, you KNEW, because of the packaging, at the very least, that all these coins</p><p>were "uncirculated" or MS 60....</p><p><br /></p><p>when you buy someone elses, hand assembled "SET" - unless one is pretty well versed in grading themselves, they don't know what they're getting.....</p><p><br /></p><p>if they're never going to sell the coins, it may not matter, but personally, i'd hate to buy what i think are uncirculated coins - die and leave them to somebody - only to have THAT person find out years later that the coins are really not worth much because - guess what - they're not "genuine" or they're kinda ruined, because they're been cleaned or dipped. etc.....</p><p><br /></p><p>so here's the question - if i personally assemble one of each denomination from the phily & denver mints dated 1950 - i still don't have a "sanctioned", official 1950's P & D u.s. mint set - what i have, is a set of 1950's P & D coins - not a 1950's "u.s. mint set"</p><p><br /></p><p>subtle - but still a big difference...... if all i want, is one coin from each denomination by date and mintmark, then there's no problem....</p><p>but if i want to collect official u.s. mint / proof "SETS"...then "houston.......</p><p><br /></p><p>and the only reason i wanted the "official" sets, was because that's the ONLY way i know of to insure the coins are "real" and have not been altered / cleaned, dipped, etc.....but i'm NOT going to find that going back prior to 1955...[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="hic, post: 2789013, member: 88523"]hi - i'd like to add, for me, the REAL question, is how to tell if the OLDER coins ever really came from original u.s. mint sets.... how would i be able to tell if the "ORIGINAL" (say from the early 40's or prior to 1955) coins had been removed and replaced with cleaned or "dipped" coins...... all proof "sets" prior to 1950 are virtually all in plastic "cases" these days - no original packing whatsoever.... so, as these are "hand" assembled - (by hands OTHER then official "u.s. mint" hands) unless you can somehow TRUST the seller - you don't really know what you're getting...... and while there's no denying a proof coin when you see one - the issue gets much more muddled when discussing actual MINT (uncirculated as opposed to proof) sets - many official "uncirculated" [B][I][U]sets[/U][/I][/B] (prior to 1960) were shipped in cardboard with holes cut out to hold the coins (sorta like those old blue whitman folders we use today) again though - how does one tell if the coins in these sets, are "original" coins that were "originally" packaged by "official" u.s. mint employees? and does it really matter? having all coins in the SAME "pilofilm" package, took the guess work out...that is, you KNEW, because of the packaging, at the very least, that all these coins were "uncirculated" or MS 60.... when you buy someone elses, hand assembled "SET" - unless one is pretty well versed in grading themselves, they don't know what they're getting..... if they're never going to sell the coins, it may not matter, but personally, i'd hate to buy what i think are uncirculated coins - die and leave them to somebody - only to have THAT person find out years later that the coins are really not worth much because - guess what - they're not "genuine" or they're kinda ruined, because they're been cleaned or dipped. etc..... so here's the question - if i personally assemble one of each denomination from the phily & denver mints dated 1950 - i still don't have a "sanctioned", official 1950's P & D u.s. mint set - what i have, is a set of 1950's P & D coins - not a 1950's "u.s. mint set" subtle - but still a big difference...... if all i want, is one coin from each denomination by date and mintmark, then there's no problem.... but if i want to collect official u.s. mint / proof "SETS"...then "houston....... and the only reason i wanted the "official" sets, was because that's the ONLY way i know of to insure the coins are "real" and have not been altered / cleaned, dipped, etc.....but i'm NOT going to find that going back prior to 1955...[/QUOTE]
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How to tell 1957-P Proof Set from 1957-P Mint pack
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