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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Lehigh96, post: 568422, member: 15309&quot;]I will tell you about my method that works for me.&nbsp; Keep in mind that there are minor adjustments that need to be made for the size of the coin, metal, and finish (MS, PF, PL, DMPL).</p><p><br /></p><p>I start with a copy stand that is set with the camera about 5 inches away from the coin.&nbsp; If you get too close, the camera blocks the light from getting to the surface of the coin.&nbsp; I then place 2 white lights at 10 o&#039;clock and 2 o&#039;clock.&nbsp; Flourescent and OTT work best for me, but you can also use halogen or GE Reveal white lights if you like.&nbsp; Whatever you do, don&#039;t mix the type of lights.&nbsp; Mixing lighting sources will change the colors on the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Now to the camera.&nbsp; I use a simple Canon Powershot SD880 IS Digital ELPH (10 megapixel).&nbsp; You need to put the camera on program mode.&nbsp; Before you shoot any photos, you must manually set the white balance on the camera.&nbsp; You must do this every time you start to take photos.&nbsp; Then I place the coin on the surface.&nbsp; For raw coins, there is no glare and a flat position with the lights in the right angle should be all you need to get a good photo showing the color.&nbsp; Slabbed coins are much more difficult because you need to avoid the glare of the plastic covering the surface of the coin and still capture the color.&nbsp; In order to capture the color, you almost always need to tilt the coin.&nbsp; I usually tilt the coin by placing another slab under the bottom of coin I am photographing.&nbsp; This tilts the coin into the light.&nbsp; The place the lights (10&amp;2) at an angle that best shows the color but does not put glare in on the coin.&nbsp; This part can be very frustrating for some coins.&nbsp; Once done, zoom as far in as you can on the coin and still be able to focus.&nbsp; Then shoot the photo and review for approval.&nbsp; If you like it keep it, if not, try and try again.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>One last tip.&nbsp; For deeply toned coins, it may be beneficial to increase the exposure of the camera to get more light.&nbsp; I have never gone above +1 on my camera for any coin.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>After the photos are done, I use photoshop to crop, size, and then hit autolevels which adjusts the color and contrast.&nbsp; I have found that this method provides the most accurate depiction of the actual appearance of the coin.&nbsp; Some people frown on any use of any imaging software with coin photos, but I have found that I must do it to make the photo look like the actual coin.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Good Luck and hang in there, it takes a lot of practice to get good at it.&nbsp; My last piece of advice is to buy Mark Goodman&#039;s NUMISMATIC PHOTOGRAPHY.&nbsp; It will help you much more than any tips you can ever get online, from me or anybody else.&nbsp; His photos are about the best I have ever seen and he is definitely and expert on the subject.&nbsp; Here is an example of his work.</p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Commemoratives/AntietamCommemorative1937PCGSMSXXOb.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><img src="http://i117.photobucket.com/albums/o59/ACPitBoss/Commemoratives/AntietamCommemorative1937PCGSMSXXRe.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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