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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 743965, member: 13650"]I believe there are several different levels of quality when it comes to fakes. And there are several different levels of collector experience that will be able to spot any one of those levels.</p><p><br /></p><p> The first level would be the obvious fakes out there. There are some that are so obvious that everybody here should be able to spot one immediately. It still takes experience. It may be a really bad color. It may be a feature that's obviously wrong. Or too big or too small, but obvious.</p><p><br /></p><p> The next level would be examples that are not so obvious. At first glance to even an experienced collector, they may pass as real. Nothing is obviously wrong. But there may be one or several very minor, hard to see issues that give it away. But you really have to look hard. Such as a grainy surface from casting, which can be impossible to see in a picture and hard to see in hand by the naked eye. A small spike coming from the denticles. Maybe some of the reeding in the reeded edge isn't perfect. Maybe tool marks or a minor piece of raised metal on the surface. </p><p><br /></p><p> Most will have at least some minor problem as it's not easy to create fakes as perfect as the originals, from new dies or castings. But it is easy to create something very similar that will fool most.</p><p><br /></p><p> The next level would be examples like the Morgans we saw from the 'legal' Chinese counterfeiting ring. The reeded edges looked perfect. No obvious problems. Metal content may be exactly as the originals. Possibly no flaws. Will fool even the most knowledgeable collector and dealer. These are the most dangerous. Weights and diameters may be correct.</p><p><br /></p><p> All I can say is try to get to know the average color by looking at real ones. Get a good caliper. I have a digital one that measures in english or metric. Also, get a digital scale. Real ones will have some variances in weight from the standard most of the time. Sometimes a lot of variance if they're heavily worn. But a MS, unworn coin that is well underweight, and out of mint tolerances should raise red flags. As an example.</p><p><br /></p><p> I bought some fake buffalo nickels one time. The diameter of my real ones were within 0.01 mm. No exceptions. The fakes were 0.15 mm larger in diameter. Still very hard to tell by the naked eye but a relatively huge, and obvious difference. </p><p><br /></p><p> There are some really good Morgan fakes out there. That would be a good series to study because there are a lot of fakes. The Chinese are still legally producing them today. There was an article in Coinage that said a guy did an experiment with a set of uncirculated Morgan fakes. He had a dealer at a show offer $30k for the set before telling him they were all fakes.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 743965, member: 13650"]I believe there are several different levels of quality when it comes to fakes. And there are several different levels of collector experience that will be able to spot any one of those levels. The first level would be the obvious fakes out there. There are some that are so obvious that everybody here should be able to spot one immediately. It still takes experience. It may be a really bad color. It may be a feature that's obviously wrong. Or too big or too small, but obvious. The next level would be examples that are not so obvious. At first glance to even an experienced collector, they may pass as real. Nothing is obviously wrong. But there may be one or several very minor, hard to see issues that give it away. But you really have to look hard. Such as a grainy surface from casting, which can be impossible to see in a picture and hard to see in hand by the naked eye. A small spike coming from the denticles. Maybe some of the reeding in the reeded edge isn't perfect. Maybe tool marks or a minor piece of raised metal on the surface. Most will have at least some minor problem as it's not easy to create fakes as perfect as the originals, from new dies or castings. But it is easy to create something very similar that will fool most. The next level would be examples like the Morgans we saw from the 'legal' Chinese counterfeiting ring. The reeded edges looked perfect. No obvious problems. Metal content may be exactly as the originals. Possibly no flaws. Will fool even the most knowledgeable collector and dealer. These are the most dangerous. Weights and diameters may be correct. All I can say is try to get to know the average color by looking at real ones. Get a good caliper. I have a digital one that measures in english or metric. Also, get a digital scale. Real ones will have some variances in weight from the standard most of the time. Sometimes a lot of variance if they're heavily worn. But a MS, unworn coin that is well underweight, and out of mint tolerances should raise red flags. As an example. I bought some fake buffalo nickels one time. The diameter of my real ones were within 0.01 mm. No exceptions. The fakes were 0.15 mm larger in diameter. Still very hard to tell by the naked eye but a relatively huge, and obvious difference. There are some really good Morgan fakes out there. That would be a good series to study because there are a lot of fakes. The Chinese are still legally producing them today. There was an article in Coinage that said a guy did an experiment with a set of uncirculated Morgan fakes. He had a dealer at a show offer $30k for the set before telling him they were all fakes.[/QUOTE]
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