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<p>[QUOTE="Insider, post: 4432871, member: 24314"]<i><span style="color: #660033">LOL, now you've gone and done it...</span></i></p><p><span style="color: #b30059"><br /></span></p><p><span style="color: #b30059"><i>"</i></span>GDSMP, love your dissertation, or not, but that was highly deflective and you should be ashamed to use such terms as "<b><span style="color: #b30000">eating</span></b>" which at absolute best is rather crude and not representative of your background I am sure."</p><p><br /></p><p><i><span style="color: #660033">Here is the thing. Most collectors are not high-fluting chemists. Most don't even know the basics of Chemistry. Many once knew the difference between oxidation and reduction reactions but have forgotten it shortly after the course was over.</span></i></p><p><i><span style="color: #660033">Some collectors know the difference between toning and serious corrosion. For those who do, a precise, easy to understand, and commonly used description of a heavily oxidized, end-stage, AND </span><span style="color: #b30000">FOREVER DAMAGED</span><span style="color: #660033"> surface is that IT HAS BEEN "</span><span style="color: #b30000"><b>EATEN AWAY</b></span><span style="color: #660033">." </span></i> </p><p><br /></p><p>From my ignorance, I'll just comment that your method is too messy and too slow for a conservation lab. Otherwise, when done correctly (as you have shown), your method seems to be a better option for many collectors than paying <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie47" alt=":greedy:" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> for professional numismatic conservation. </p><p><br /></p><p>Now let's get serious. Do you have any tips for removing spots from BU copper coins?[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Insider, post: 4432871, member: 24314"][I][COLOR=#660033]LOL, now you've gone and done it...[/COLOR][/I] [COLOR=#b30059][I][/I] [I]"[/I][/COLOR]GDSMP, love your dissertation, or not, but that was highly deflective and you should be ashamed to use such terms as "[B][COLOR=#b30000]eating[/COLOR][/B]" which at absolute best is rather crude and not representative of your background I am sure." [I][COLOR=#660033]Here is the thing. Most collectors are not high-fluting chemists. Most don't even know the basics of Chemistry. Many once knew the difference between oxidation and reduction reactions but have forgotten it shortly after the course was over. Some collectors know the difference between toning and serious corrosion. For those who do, a precise, easy to understand, and commonly used description of a heavily oxidized, end-stage, AND [/COLOR][COLOR=#b30000]FOREVER DAMAGED[/COLOR][COLOR=#660033] surface is that IT HAS BEEN "[/COLOR][COLOR=#b30000][B]EATEN AWAY[/B][/COLOR][COLOR=#660033]." [/COLOR][/I] From my ignorance, I'll just comment that your method is too messy and too slow for a conservation lab. Otherwise, when done correctly (as you have shown), your method seems to be a better option for many collectors than paying :greedy: for professional numismatic conservation. Now let's get serious. Do you have any tips for removing spots from BU copper coins?[/QUOTE]
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