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<p>[QUOTE="TypeCoin971793, post: 3244259, member: 78244"]<b>Step 3: Observe the Surface Quality</b></p><p><br /></p><p>The final step is to take a closer look at the coin to observe the surface quality in terms of hairlines and the like. There are some important steps to take in this step:</p><p><br /></p><ul> <li>Lighting from a 60W - 100W incandescent bulb works best. This will reveal most of the problems present.</li> <li>Rotate the coin under a light. This will change how the light shines on the coin, which will cause problems to jump out as the light catches them.</li> <li>Use magnification if needed to get a better look at anything that jumps out in the first two points.</li> </ul><p><br /></p><p>What are you looking for by doing this? Well, three things:</p><p><br /></p><ul> <li>Presence/absence of cartwheel luster</li> <li>Unnatural “luster” (whizzed coins)</li> <li>Hairlines</li> </ul><p>When considering hairlines, there are two types of hairlines: circulation hairlines and cleaning hairlines. Fingers are abrasives which can cause hairlines on coins, so it is important to be able to tell the difference. Hairlines from circulation are small and scattered with no purpose. They often appear on the high points and in the middle of the fields. The AU-58 Morgan posted near the top shows this. Cleaning hairlines are long, parallel, and have purpose. The distinction is most easily seen on circulated gold coins because they don’t tone over the circulation hairlines.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here is an example of why rotating the coin under a light. This is the same coin under two different lighting conditions. The hairlines were not readily visible at first, but changing the light angle made them quite apparent. Also note how they are long and parallel. This is the classic sign of an abrasively-cleaned coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]850015[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Here is another example taken from multiple lighting conditions. The untoned surfaces are a glossy gray, there is color despite the lack of luster, and there are long hairlines that appear to move around in the right obverse field (among other places). All three aspects lead to the conclusion that this coin has been cleaned.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]850016[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>“Whizzing” is a whole different animal. This is when a brush on a high-RPM tool is used on a coin to artificially simulate luster. Most call it tooling, but since someone could inadvertently use this method as a genuine attempt to “clean” a coin, I will include it in this discussion. A whizzed coin is best spotted through the unnatural appearance of luster and built-up metal around the devices from when the coin’s surface literally melts from the high friction. By “unnatural” I mean spread-out and liquid-like, which also spreads to the devices. It is an acquired eye, but it really jumps out when you see it if you know what natural luster is supposed to look like.</p><p><br /></p><p>Here is an example of a whizzed shield nickel. Note the wide spread of the luster and the unnatural patterns in the field.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]850017[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Lastly, some remarks about dipping:</p><p><br /></p><ul> <li>Dipping a coin is not necessarily bad when done to an AU-55 or above coin. There is still plenty of luster at this level to make it not look completely unnatural.</li> <li>Dipping can bring out luster and eye appeal if done correctly and on a coin that could be improved. It only “Resets” the surface of the coin if done right.</li> <li>Dipping is not considered damaging (if done right), but should NOT be considered original</li> <li>Dipped coins are often called problem-free if the luster is not impaired.</li> <li>Dipping coins which grade below AU-55 will make coins look unnatural and will bring out circulation hairlines that were originally covered by a layer of toning.</li> </ul><p>I hope this guide has been helpful and will be useful. These are the standards I use when calling a coin cleaned as they make logical sense to me. Use them if you wish, or make your own standards. Please feel free to add on anything I missed.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="TypeCoin971793, post: 3244259, member: 78244"][B]Step 3: Observe the Surface Quality[/B] The final step is to take a closer look at the coin to observe the surface quality in terms of hairlines and the like. There are some important steps to take in this step: [LIST] [*]Lighting from a 60W - 100W incandescent bulb works best. This will reveal most of the problems present. [*]Rotate the coin under a light. This will change how the light shines on the coin, which will cause problems to jump out as the light catches them. [*]Use magnification if needed to get a better look at anything that jumps out in the first two points. [/LIST] What are you looking for by doing this? Well, three things: [LIST] [*]Presence/absence of cartwheel luster [*]Unnatural “luster” (whizzed coins) [*]Hairlines [/LIST] When considering hairlines, there are two types of hairlines: circulation hairlines and cleaning hairlines. Fingers are abrasives which can cause hairlines on coins, so it is important to be able to tell the difference. Hairlines from circulation are small and scattered with no purpose. They often appear on the high points and in the middle of the fields. The AU-58 Morgan posted near the top shows this. Cleaning hairlines are long, parallel, and have purpose. The distinction is most easily seen on circulated gold coins because they don’t tone over the circulation hairlines. Here is an example of why rotating the coin under a light. This is the same coin under two different lighting conditions. The hairlines were not readily visible at first, but changing the light angle made them quite apparent. Also note how they are long and parallel. This is the classic sign of an abrasively-cleaned coin. [ATTACH=full]850015[/ATTACH] Here is another example taken from multiple lighting conditions. The untoned surfaces are a glossy gray, there is color despite the lack of luster, and there are long hairlines that appear to move around in the right obverse field (among other places). All three aspects lead to the conclusion that this coin has been cleaned. [ATTACH=full]850016[/ATTACH] “Whizzing” is a whole different animal. This is when a brush on a high-RPM tool is used on a coin to artificially simulate luster. Most call it tooling, but since someone could inadvertently use this method as a genuine attempt to “clean” a coin, I will include it in this discussion. A whizzed coin is best spotted through the unnatural appearance of luster and built-up metal around the devices from when the coin’s surface literally melts from the high friction. By “unnatural” I mean spread-out and liquid-like, which also spreads to the devices. It is an acquired eye, but it really jumps out when you see it if you know what natural luster is supposed to look like. Here is an example of a whizzed shield nickel. Note the wide spread of the luster and the unnatural patterns in the field. [ATTACH=full]850017[/ATTACH] Lastly, some remarks about dipping: [LIST] [*]Dipping a coin is not necessarily bad when done to an AU-55 or above coin. There is still plenty of luster at this level to make it not look completely unnatural. [*]Dipping can bring out luster and eye appeal if done correctly and on a coin that could be improved. It only “Resets” the surface of the coin if done right. [*]Dipping is not considered damaging (if done right), but should NOT be considered original [*]Dipped coins are often called problem-free if the luster is not impaired. [*]Dipping coins which grade below AU-55 will make coins look unnatural and will bring out circulation hairlines that were originally covered by a layer of toning. [/LIST] I hope this guide has been helpful and will be useful. These are the standards I use when calling a coin cleaned as they make logical sense to me. Use them if you wish, or make your own standards. Please feel free to add on anything I missed.[/QUOTE]
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