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How to destroy copper coins: a comprehensive list
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<p>[QUOTE="andrew289, post: 916232, member: 6463"]Pre-cleaning a darkened (chocolate or toned) coin does aid in the readability of newly pressed design and the flattened side. Depending on the level of detail. Obviously, cleaning a coin without anything wrong with the surface would make no difference squashed or not squashed.</p><p> </p><p>Season collectors know to use only coins pre-1981 (1982 has some zinc coated that the commoner might not be able to identify by sight). I have a coffee can full of 1941's that use and I never clean them before squashing. I want to keep the vintage chocolate brown color after they are squashed.</p><p> </p><p>Seasoned collectors also know that if you put the coin in with Lincoln's head on the right, you will have the design pressed on the reverse and the obverse will be flattened; thus leaving a readable date on the flat back surface of your squashed penny.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="andrew289, post: 916232, member: 6463"]Pre-cleaning a darkened (chocolate or toned) coin does aid in the readability of newly pressed design and the flattened side. Depending on the level of detail. Obviously, cleaning a coin without anything wrong with the surface would make no difference squashed or not squashed. Season collectors know to use only coins pre-1981 (1982 has some zinc coated that the commoner might not be able to identify by sight). I have a coffee can full of 1941's that use and I never clean them before squashing. I want to keep the vintage chocolate brown color after they are squashed. Seasoned collectors also know that if you put the coin in with Lincoln's head on the right, you will have the design pressed on the reverse and the obverse will be flattened; thus leaving a readable date on the flat back surface of your squashed penny.[/QUOTE]
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