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<p>[QUOTE="Vegas Vic, post: 2052134, member: 58810"]parden me if I commit the crime of returning to the op, but my method of buying usually involves a few techniques.</p><p><br /></p><p>1. I don't buy coins unless they are pcgs or ngc certified.</p><p><br /></p><p>2. I subscribe to the grey sheet and coin facts and use heratige and ebay completed sales data to get an understanding of the range of value a particular coin has. While every coin truly is unique and valued as such, with tpg grading you can still get a generic range where your coin lies. Comparing the coin you are looking at with the databases available is enormously helpful.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. Toned coins don't value according to white coin values. Understand buying a toned coin is a specialized nitch</p><p><br /></p><p>4. Error coins have a range but are very hard to pin down exact value. View many errors completed sales of similar coins to get a concept of market value for the specific error.</p><p><br /></p><p>5. Prior to buying a specific coin I will usually Google that coin to see what my purchasing options are. Better deals are hiding everywhere online.</p><p><br /></p><p>6. Check the cert numbers in the pcgs or ngc database prior. Sometimes not only do you see the coin but also prior sales of that specific coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>7. Posting the coin here prior to purchasing and asking questions can help. Just be careful you don't wait too long to then buy the coin or others might beat you to it. Making a "guess the grade" thread using a picture of the coin you want to buy can give you an understanding of how others grade the coin you are looking at.</p><p><br /></p><p>8. When buying off eBay or other sites finding the sellers own website can sometimes get you a nice discount as the person then doesn't have to pay ebay fees. Googling the coin details will sometimes bring you to the dealers website. Other times the sellers name or Id will get you to their own website. When you do this just be very careful that the person you are buying from is a reputable dealer because you lose your ebay buyer protection by doing this. You can then contact the dealer outside of ebay or the other system and ask them for a better price then they listed in ebay.</p><p><br /></p><p>Ethics. I don't use the ebay system and email them via eBay to do this. If I can use the visable information to find the person and then make a deal it is to me different then flat out using the ebay system and emailing the seller via eBay to then go outside ebay. But everyone has to use their own ethics here. It is certainly possible to use a disposable account and repeatable use eBay to ask dealers to do this.</p><p><br /></p><p>9. When buying or considering buying at a show I always compare the coin in front of me to my internet options. I once bought a thick Norse pcgs ms63 for $215 when the dealer at the table wanted $310. And they were both graded properly. You could have switched the coins and no one would be able to tell which was which except by looking at the pcgs serial numbers.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vegas Vic, post: 2052134, member: 58810"]parden me if I commit the crime of returning to the op, but my method of buying usually involves a few techniques. 1. I don't buy coins unless they are pcgs or ngc certified. 2. I subscribe to the grey sheet and coin facts and use heratige and ebay completed sales data to get an understanding of the range of value a particular coin has. While every coin truly is unique and valued as such, with tpg grading you can still get a generic range where your coin lies. Comparing the coin you are looking at with the databases available is enormously helpful. 3. Toned coins don't value according to white coin values. Understand buying a toned coin is a specialized nitch 4. Error coins have a range but are very hard to pin down exact value. View many errors completed sales of similar coins to get a concept of market value for the specific error. 5. Prior to buying a specific coin I will usually Google that coin to see what my purchasing options are. Better deals are hiding everywhere online. 6. Check the cert numbers in the pcgs or ngc database prior. Sometimes not only do you see the coin but also prior sales of that specific coin. 7. Posting the coin here prior to purchasing and asking questions can help. Just be careful you don't wait too long to then buy the coin or others might beat you to it. Making a "guess the grade" thread using a picture of the coin you want to buy can give you an understanding of how others grade the coin you are looking at. 8. When buying off eBay or other sites finding the sellers own website can sometimes get you a nice discount as the person then doesn't have to pay ebay fees. Googling the coin details will sometimes bring you to the dealers website. Other times the sellers name or Id will get you to their own website. When you do this just be very careful that the person you are buying from is a reputable dealer because you lose your ebay buyer protection by doing this. You can then contact the dealer outside of ebay or the other system and ask them for a better price then they listed in ebay. Ethics. I don't use the ebay system and email them via eBay to do this. If I can use the visable information to find the person and then make a deal it is to me different then flat out using the ebay system and emailing the seller via eBay to then go outside ebay. But everyone has to use their own ethics here. It is certainly possible to use a disposable account and repeatable use eBay to ask dealers to do this. 9. When buying or considering buying at a show I always compare the coin in front of me to my internet options. I once bought a thick Norse pcgs ms63 for $215 when the dealer at the table wanted $310. And they were both graded properly. You could have switched the coins and no one would be able to tell which was which except by looking at the pcgs serial numbers.[/QUOTE]
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