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<p>[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 534601, member: 16510"]<b>They buy it with roooooooom,</b></p><p><br /></p><p><i> How does that dealer make a judgement on what he will pay for those items? I guess what I really want to know is how would he memorize all of the possibilities that that particular coin or paper could have. </i></p><p> </p><p><b>They buy it with roooooooom, in other words they leave themselves very little chance of losing any money.</b></p><p> </p><p>I think I understand what you are asking and this like anything else in life has many variable answers but here goes.</p><p> </p><p>1. When they buy they write it down and then they code it - look on the back of 2x2's and see if you do not find a sticker or writing something like, GLI.EE - that is their code for what they paid. Come up with a 10 letter word that does not repeat itself and you can have one too, each letter corresponds with a number 0 thru 9 (hint-don't use campground everyone knows that one).</p><p>2. They use the GraySheet and always buy 10% back of bid or more for modern stuff and mint and proof sets, sometimes 35% back. If you buy at 10 back and sell at ask you automatically make for 15% to 20% on every item.</p><p>3. Most dealer do not know much about errors or varieties - if it's not in the Red-book they generally don't know. Plus most minor errors actually take away value from good collector coins rather than add to it.</p><p>Always remember that if a coins numismatic value is high to begin with any error of variety on it will not increase it very much over it's already high value.</p><p>4. They do this for a living and they get good at it - with a retail shop they don't have to pay very much for most common stuff as it is a dime a dozen and everybody has got these modern mint and proof sets along with the modern bullion - ie: (it ain't rare!).</p><p>5. They have a lot of stuff already sold before they buy it - let me explain - they have friends who always buy any rolls they get, they have friends that always buy bullion in bulk that they get and so on - by the time the customer that sold it is starting his/her car he is on the phone selling it. ( ie: moving it on down the line)!</p><p> </p><p><b>One more thing very important - they learn the un-value of a damaged coin.</b></p><p><b>A coin with a rim ding, scratch, cleaned, or has a problem they discount their buy price even more. This is an aspect that many new persons just don't get for awhile. If a coin otherwise EF-45 and really nice has a rim ding or whatever an experienced dealer will pay on the level of a Fine-20 or so. He has too, that coin, (for that matter any coin he buys) might be there on the shelve 4 years from today not making him one cent i all that time.</b></p><p> </p><p>Hope this helps you,[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="bhp3rd, post: 534601, member: 16510"][b]They buy it with roooooooom,[/b] [I] How does that dealer make a judgement on what he will pay for those items? I guess what I really want to know is how would he memorize all of the possibilities that that particular coin or paper could have. [/I] [B]They buy it with roooooooom, in other words they leave themselves very little chance of losing any money.[/B] I think I understand what you are asking and this like anything else in life has many variable answers but here goes. 1. When they buy they write it down and then they code it - look on the back of 2x2's and see if you do not find a sticker or writing something like, GLI.EE - that is their code for what they paid. Come up with a 10 letter word that does not repeat itself and you can have one too, each letter corresponds with a number 0 thru 9 (hint-don't use campground everyone knows that one). 2. They use the GraySheet and always buy 10% back of bid or more for modern stuff and mint and proof sets, sometimes 35% back. If you buy at 10 back and sell at ask you automatically make for 15% to 20% on every item. 3. Most dealer do not know much about errors or varieties - if it's not in the Red-book they generally don't know. Plus most minor errors actually take away value from good collector coins rather than add to it. Always remember that if a coins numismatic value is high to begin with any error of variety on it will not increase it very much over it's already high value. 4. They do this for a living and they get good at it - with a retail shop they don't have to pay very much for most common stuff as it is a dime a dozen and everybody has got these modern mint and proof sets along with the modern bullion - ie: (it ain't rare!). 5. They have a lot of stuff already sold before they buy it - let me explain - they have friends who always buy any rolls they get, they have friends that always buy bullion in bulk that they get and so on - by the time the customer that sold it is starting his/her car he is on the phone selling it. ( ie: moving it on down the line)! [B]One more thing very important - they learn the un-value of a damaged coin.[/B] [B]A coin with a rim ding, scratch, cleaned, or has a problem they discount their buy price even more. This is an aspect that many new persons just don't get for awhile. If a coin otherwise EF-45 and really nice has a rim ding or whatever an experienced dealer will pay on the level of a Fine-20 or so. He has too, that coin, (for that matter any coin he buys) might be there on the shelve 4 years from today not making him one cent i all that time.[/B] Hope this helps you,[/QUOTE]
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