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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 3379298, member: 13650"]The hobby's always dying but I keep waiting for prices to come down! </p><p><br /></p><p> I just re-valued what I have yesterday. Some stuff goes up some goes down. You can look up sold prices on ebay at the advanced button to the right of search. Check completed listings only. I used it to value some state quarter silver proof sets. Just to get something close to adjust the number for what they're currently selling at. Some stuff I've probably left too high but I try to estimate conservatively based on what I paid. A lot of stuff I just calculate at melt to save time. As PM prices go up and down as well as overall interest, prices fluctuate.</p><p><br /></p><p> Like some have said, don't just buy coins. It's a good experience to try to sell coins once in a while to get a feel for what people pay. Something you went all out for, somebody else may not. Ebay is saturated unless you've got something really rare.</p><p><br /></p><p> If you think your collection will go to a dealer some day just take all your buy prices and divide by two for a valuation. I played that game the other day. I walked out with what I had brought to trade on something and happily kept what I had. Dealers will look at a generic book price and throw you a low ball offer, if they're even willing to buy or trade what you have. If you paid a premium for exceptional paper quality, their offer will be based on a generic priced, non-EPQ version, etc. </p><p><br /></p><p> The only thing that is liquid is bullion. To recoup a numismatic premium to break even takes work and a lot of time for a buyer to come along. i.e. NOT LIQUID.</p><p><br /></p><p> Here's a real world example. I bought a gorgeous toned Morgan dollar back in 2015. It got a star and it seems proof like to me. I remember the seller had a buy it now or best offer. After a few days, <u><b>I talked him down</b></u> to $320. That was his bottom line. If I wanted to have it that's what I had to pay or walk away. He wouldn't take 280. So, I ended up paying it.</p><p> </p><p> Last year I decided to list it, just to see what I could get for it for another purchase. It barely got up to $150 and didn't meet the reserve. Maybe on another week, it would do better but who knows? It's hard to capture how nice it is in pics but that's all people were willing to pay. Take fees and shipping out of that. Now you're down to about $115. It's still worth $300 to me so I kept it. I'm not willing to sell it for less. So what's the value? lol </p><p><br /></p><p> Somebody else had it right. It's a hobby man. This is why.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 3379298, member: 13650"]The hobby's always dying but I keep waiting for prices to come down! I just re-valued what I have yesterday. Some stuff goes up some goes down. You can look up sold prices on ebay at the advanced button to the right of search. Check completed listings only. I used it to value some state quarter silver proof sets. Just to get something close to adjust the number for what they're currently selling at. Some stuff I've probably left too high but I try to estimate conservatively based on what I paid. A lot of stuff I just calculate at melt to save time. As PM prices go up and down as well as overall interest, prices fluctuate. Like some have said, don't just buy coins. It's a good experience to try to sell coins once in a while to get a feel for what people pay. Something you went all out for, somebody else may not. Ebay is saturated unless you've got something really rare. If you think your collection will go to a dealer some day just take all your buy prices and divide by two for a valuation. I played that game the other day. I walked out with what I had brought to trade on something and happily kept what I had. Dealers will look at a generic book price and throw you a low ball offer, if they're even willing to buy or trade what you have. If you paid a premium for exceptional paper quality, their offer will be based on a generic priced, non-EPQ version, etc. The only thing that is liquid is bullion. To recoup a numismatic premium to break even takes work and a lot of time for a buyer to come along. i.e. NOT LIQUID. Here's a real world example. I bought a gorgeous toned Morgan dollar back in 2015. It got a star and it seems proof like to me. I remember the seller had a buy it now or best offer. After a few days, [U][B]I talked him down[/B][/U] to $320. That was his bottom line. If I wanted to have it that's what I had to pay or walk away. He wouldn't take 280. So, I ended up paying it. Last year I decided to list it, just to see what I could get for it for another purchase. It barely got up to $150 and didn't meet the reserve. Maybe on another week, it would do better but who knows? It's hard to capture how nice it is in pics but that's all people were willing to pay. Take fees and shipping out of that. Now you're down to about $115. It's still worth $300 to me so I kept it. I'm not willing to sell it for less. So what's the value? lol Somebody else had it right. It's a hobby man. This is why.[/QUOTE]
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