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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;cpm9ball, post: 1364415, member: 24633&quot;]The case shouldn&#039;t make any difference. You need a bright light (I prefer a halogen, but fluorescent will do) and about a 10x loupe.</p><p><br /></p><p>If the coin is a proof, start by examining all of the cameo surfaces first. This is where the minute flaws are more likely to occur. </p><p><br /></p><p><b>Slowly</b>, tilt the coin back-and-forth and up-and-down (every which way) under the light. Be sure to check all of the devices, the legend, date, mintmark and yes, even the rim. If there is even the tiniest pinprick of a nick in the cameo, you will see it sparkle where the light hits the exposed metal. </p><p><br /></p><p>It is a little bit trickier examining the mirrored fields. You&#039;re still looking for the minutest of imperfections, but it is easier to see them by looking at the fields at an angle. If you see something, you also have to be sure that it isn&#039;t just a shadow cast by a speck of dust on the inside of the plastic case. An easy way to tell if it is actually a speck of dust, is to tilt the case slowly and see if the position of the mark moves on the coin. If it does, then it is just a speck of dust.</p><p><br /></p><p>Take a look at these photos of my 2005-S KS Silver SQ, NGC PF70 UCAM. The close-up photo was taken before submitting it, and you can see a bunch of small specks of light in the field (and even some flaws on the inside of the case.) This was dust on the inside of the case, and when I moved the case under the light, the position of the shadows on the coin moved. As you can see, all of the specks are gone on the slabbed coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>Examining uncirculated coins uses the same procedure, but it is even harder still because all of the surfaces are the same finish(except burnished or satin finish), and you have the high and low spots of the devices (like hair) to check.</p><p><br /></p><p>I hope this helps.</p><p><br /></p><p>Chris[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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