I have found a couple of really shiny older coins out of circulation that were struck with alot of detail, and i was wondering how to tell if they are proofs.
That is a very broad question and you don't give us much to go on but I will try to answer your question. "Shiny" does not always mean "Proof". I don't know what you mean by "older" but if the coin is pre-1968 and it has a mintmark it is not Proof. (Exception: 1942-P Jefferson Nickels have a P mintmark. Other exceptions exist but you won't find them in circulation.) Proof coins will generally have a stronger strike (more details) and will generally have full rims with square edges.
You'll know a proof when you see it, is what I always say. Go to your local coin shop, buy a few modern proofs for $1-2, and compare them to business strikes.
So how do you tell Pre-68 proofs from regular Philadelphia business strike? I mean I find 64 pennies all day long that I don't think are proofs but they have had too much time to wear to be able to tell one way or another.
What Hobo says, but I will add, Proofs are generally struck more than once for each coin and sometimes the pressure is greater also, the dies are specially prepared and polished, and the rims as said above are square edged ( right angle) whereas most coins struck for circulation ( non proofs) since the advent of the machine age are chamfered ( slightly rounded edge so they can pass through various counters and mechanical devices with out jamming. Lon is right also, it is easier to see in hand than explain. Also some proofs aren't shiny on purpose ~they can have a matte, and textured surface also. It is the process, planchets and the dies that makes a coin a proof. Also some proofs are less expensive than the corresponding circulation coin. Welcome to the forum Jim ( Hobo, I still can't get use to your new avatar, but at least it doesn't give me nightmares )
I usually don't keep an avatar long enough for most people to get used to it. Hopefully you will like my next one better.
Again, you kind of have to see them to know. I've found one circulation proof cent, a 1962. It had mirrored surfaces, and a square edge. It showed some signs of handling, but not much. If a proof was somehow circulated enough so that it looked like all the other 1964 cents you find everyday, then there's no reason to save it anyway, and no point in trying to detect proof or not. That's unlikely, however.
I have a 1776-1976 ike silver dollar.it is a type 2, noticed by the second s in states. along with curved r in dollar. no mint mark. I'm trying to figure what I have exactly?