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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Tamaracian, post: 8183004, member: 23122&quot;]Hi [USER=27832]@-jeffB[/USER] and I will answer your good, probing questions.&nbsp; The rust, <i>if present</i>, is in the bottom of the can and will only be in the pour if you agitated the can when it is near empty or tip it vertical trying to get the last drop out.&nbsp; If pouring into a container (ex. glass (best), stainless steel, or polypropylene) in order to immerse the coin for soaking, the rust--if present--will not remain on the coins surface but may scratch the surface(s) if you agitate the coin or when you attempt to remove it.&nbsp; To counteract that you can do one of two things: (1) strain the Acetone through a conical Paper Filter (you can use either a glass or polyethylene funnel) and if present you will see any solids originally present in the can; or (2) pour the Acetone into a glass or polyethylene jar or beaker that is about 7 cm in diameter by about 7 cm high and then dip the coin into the Acetone using a Handled Strainer that is made of Nylon (I use one that is made for the Lapidary hobby that has a stainless steel frame/handle with a nylon mesh strainer; I also use this for suspending the coins that I clean using my Ultrasonic Cleaner).&nbsp; If you use the Handled Strainer you won&#039;t have to pre-strain the Acetone.</p><p><br /></p><p>Have you checked the color of the Acetone from the can?&nbsp; Pour a little onto a pure white absorbent material and <i>if</i> you see a slight yellowish/amberish hue then there are other chemicals or dissolved solids in the Acetone, which if not rinsed off, <i>will</i> leave a residue on the coin&#039;s surface, which may or may not be apparent depending upon how reflective the surfaces are.&nbsp; In particular, I have found if you just use the Acetone as it comes from the can on a coin with proof surfaces you will see a residue that looks like the thin film deposit of a toned coin but without too much color to it; then trying to get that residue off becomes problematical using the <i>same</i> Acetone that imparted it in the first place; that&#039;s why I use Brakleen as the final rinse on most of my coins (I never use a water rinse for coins with proof/prooflike surfaces).</p><p><br /></p><p>Yes, the Brakleen is clean drying without leaving a residue even on proof coins <i><b>as-long-as</b></i> you blow the liquid remnant off with &quot;canned air&quot;.&nbsp; The product formulation is 90-100% tetrachloroethylene plus CO2 for the pressurization with a portion of the mixture containing a stabilizer.&nbsp; It is formulated specifically for cleaning disk brake rotors and drums so that it doesn&#039;t leave a residue, which if it did may impair braking performance.&nbsp; I have used this product for years (BTW, it is a great general purpose cleaner and from my experience dissolves/cleans latex paint residue or brushes better than most other solvents).&nbsp; As far as air quality or effects on the respiratory system neither one of the two are without irritation or long-term effects, however, in use for soaking a coin the exposure to the Acetone would be over a longer period whereas the exposure to the Brakleen is just a brief spray on both side of the coin (I use nitrile gloves when handling the coin, even for just observing it).&nbsp; Remember, the Brakleen is the final rinse after the coin has been cleaned first with the Acetone.</p><p><br /></p><p>If the Coinsolv was still available I would be using that--for the final rinse--for all coins except proofs, but alas it is not, and I don&#039;t see anything else on the market that is guaranteed pure enough for a final rinse (except the Reagent Grade Acetone that is very expensive and difficult to get if you&#039;re not an approved user).</p><p><br /></p><p>I hope that my answers are helpful to you, and anyone else that may read the thread.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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