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<p>[QUOTE="lrbguy, post: 2892318, member: 88829"]I know people prefer short replies. Complicated questions take more, so I hope the reader has patience. </p><p><br /></p><p>There is no one test that will cover all the bases. Here are some pointers in how to regard sand patina, from my own limited experience. I offer this for whatever it is worth to you.</p><p><br /></p><p>1. How much sand patina are you seeing? Since fake sand patina is intended to enhance the appearance of the coin, sand patina which does not do this (as in the case here) is more likely to be authentic. However, authentic sand patina can also look very attractive, depending upon the degree of original coverage and the skill of the person doing the initial cleaning of the coin. So this "test" alone is not enough in a case like that. It helps to know that prior to the most modern faking methods well preserved sand patina was comparatively rare. </p><p><br /></p><p>2. Q-tip test. Natural sand patina is composed of tiny particles of sand which are clumped together in a matrix of other material from the ground. The trick in making fake sand patina is finding the combination of substances that will emulate that matrix, when added to a powdery sand, and still brush onto the surface and adhere. Shellacs, varnishes, and glues have all been used to accomplish this. Test a small part of the surface with a dab of turpentine or mineral spirits on a Q-tip to see if it causes the sand patina to gum up or decompose. If so, it is probable that the patina was artificially applied.</p><p><br /></p><p>3. Thumb and forefinger. At "excavation" in removing an original accumulation of sand, it was necessary to buff the sand away. Cleaning it with oil would leave the sand patina looking discolored and smooth like stone. Rubbing a coin having genuine sand patina between the thumb and forefinger should begin to darken and smooth the "sand" surface a bit. However, when this is done on a polymer based finish, the texture and tone do not change as much. It's a judgment call that only comes with experience. </p><p><br /></p><p>4. Test surface durability. Brushing an oil affected natural sand patina with a pliable bristle brush could restore the surface granularity of the sand and give it a brighter appearance, but this would appear particulate, as if covered with a fine-grain substance. Depending upon the tools and technique used this same treatment could leave a polymer based patina looking "distressed," i.e. surface shredded and irregular.</p><p><br /></p><p>5. Fake until proven innocent. As an artificial patina, fake sand patina is the first choice when the original coin surface has blemishes such as pitting, scarring, or decomposition. Fake sand patina will cover over such blemishes and present a viewing surface with enhanced contrast, allowing design features to stand out. Since the only way to determine the actual condition of the metallic surface is to remove the "sand" there is some justification to regarding coins with a sand patina as having damage until proven sound.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="lrbguy, post: 2892318, member: 88829"]I know people prefer short replies. Complicated questions take more, so I hope the reader has patience. There is no one test that will cover all the bases. Here are some pointers in how to regard sand patina, from my own limited experience. I offer this for whatever it is worth to you. 1. How much sand patina are you seeing? Since fake sand patina is intended to enhance the appearance of the coin, sand patina which does not do this (as in the case here) is more likely to be authentic. However, authentic sand patina can also look very attractive, depending upon the degree of original coverage and the skill of the person doing the initial cleaning of the coin. So this "test" alone is not enough in a case like that. It helps to know that prior to the most modern faking methods well preserved sand patina was comparatively rare. 2. Q-tip test. Natural sand patina is composed of tiny particles of sand which are clumped together in a matrix of other material from the ground. The trick in making fake sand patina is finding the combination of substances that will emulate that matrix, when added to a powdery sand, and still brush onto the surface and adhere. Shellacs, varnishes, and glues have all been used to accomplish this. Test a small part of the surface with a dab of turpentine or mineral spirits on a Q-tip to see if it causes the sand patina to gum up or decompose. If so, it is probable that the patina was artificially applied. 3. Thumb and forefinger. At "excavation" in removing an original accumulation of sand, it was necessary to buff the sand away. Cleaning it with oil would leave the sand patina looking discolored and smooth like stone. Rubbing a coin having genuine sand patina between the thumb and forefinger should begin to darken and smooth the "sand" surface a bit. However, when this is done on a polymer based finish, the texture and tone do not change as much. It's a judgment call that only comes with experience. 4. Test surface durability. Brushing an oil affected natural sand patina with a pliable bristle brush could restore the surface granularity of the sand and give it a brighter appearance, but this would appear particulate, as if covered with a fine-grain substance. Depending upon the tools and technique used this same treatment could leave a polymer based patina looking "distressed," i.e. surface shredded and irregular. 5. Fake until proven innocent. As an artificial patina, fake sand patina is the first choice when the original coin surface has blemishes such as pitting, scarring, or decomposition. Fake sand patina will cover over such blemishes and present a viewing surface with enhanced contrast, allowing design features to stand out. Since the only way to determine the actual condition of the metallic surface is to remove the "sand" there is some justification to regarding coins with a sand patina as having damage until proven sound.[/QUOTE]
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