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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;-jeffB, post: 2656764, member: 27832&quot;]It&#039;s easy to distinguish Type 1 coins by the position of the eagle on the reverse, even if they&#039;re worn almost flat. (No stars under the eagle for Type 1; none of the coins in your picture match.) If you do have a Type 1, there are pretty clear indicators that can distinguish the very rare 1916 from the 1917-P.</p><p><br /></p><p>It&#039;s <i>often</i> possible to distinguish Type 2 (raised date, 1917-1924) from Type 3 (recessed date, 1925-1930), even if they&#039;re badly worn.</p><p><br /></p><p>If you can make out the last digit of the date at all, you can tell what you&#039;ve got. If it&#039;s a 7, 8, 9 or 0, if it&#039;s a recessed date, it&#039;s 1927/1928/1929/1930; if it&#039;s a raised date, it&#039;s 1917/1918/1919/1920.</p><p><br /></p><p>There are claims that there was once a product like Nic-A-Date that would restore dates on silver coins, but the only evidence I&#039;ve seen is questionable (a Photoshopped image). There&#039;s a steady market in restored-date key Buffalo nickels, and even Liberty nickels, but nothing of the sort for SLQs or Walkers; this makes me think that no one can do it successfully. If they could, we&#039;d be seeing the products.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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