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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;JCro57, post: 3346271, member: 92083&quot;][USER=85284]@Cheech9712[/USER] </p><p>This is a tough one...</p><p><br /></p><p>As far as how I buy, I try to complete as best an error type set as I can with as many denominations and series as possible. I like coins with dates, no Details grades, and nice eye appeal (more important than a grade actually, though VF is the lowest I go). I do this because I know it is what most error collectors would want, will be far easier to sell, and will sell for more money. I have overpaid for some one-of-a-kind pieces or those with 10-12 known examples, and in my opinion likely wouldn&#039;t get back what I paid unless that one person wants it who would lose sleep knowing it exists and won&#039;t find another.</p><p><br /></p><p>Would I <i>MAKE </i> money on many I own? ABSOLUTELY.</p><p><br /></p><p>Would I <i>LOSE</i> money on many I own? ABSOLUTELY.</p><p><br /></p><p>The issue that I have, and I imagine [USER=44615]@paddyman98[/USER] as well, is I did not buy or acqire my pieces with the intention of selling them. I have sold a few pieces that I upgraded and made waaaay more than I paid (I just sold a 1998 broadstrike quarter a week ago on eBay for $115 more than I paid for it. Last year, I sold a broadstruck 1990s dime for $145 and only paid $12.50 for it. Also sold a 10% Off-center SBA for $80 more than I paid 2 weeks ago). But that is not the norm.</p><p><br /></p><p>Error coin sales are volatile. An error that sold for $12,000 might not sell for $6,000 15 years later. Not true so much with rare non-errors like a 1916-D Mercury dime. </p><p><br /></p><p>So, the answer is, I have no idea if I would make or lose money tomorrow or 15 years from now. And if I ever started a business as a dealer, I would definitely lose money as I would be my own best customer.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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