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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;calcol, post: 24660960, member: 77639&quot;]Actually, Heritage bids do go up incrementally.&nbsp; The increments are posted on their website.&nbsp; Others bid the coin up until it reached one increment below the $500 hammer where you won it.</p><p><br /></p><p>For auction companies that charge a buyer’s fee (most do), decide how much you’re willing to pay exclusive of shipping and taxes.&nbsp; Then figure the maximum bid as:</p><p><br /></p><p>(max willing to pay)&nbsp; /&nbsp; (1 + buyer’s fee as fraction).</p><p><br /></p><p>In the case of Heritage, where the buyer’s fee is 20%:&nbsp;&nbsp; max bid = max willing to pay / 1.2</p><p><br /></p><p>For some companies, the buyer’s fee depends on the method of payment.&nbsp; For example, Great Collections charges 12.5% for credit card payment but 10% for other methods.</p><p><br /></p><p>It can be frustrating to be sniped or lose a bid by one increment.&nbsp;&nbsp; My approach is to watch the coin until the day before for the auction ends.&nbsp; If current bid is still reasonable, I bid well in advance of closing and bid so as not to exceed the max I’m willing to pay.&nbsp; Then I don’t look again until after closing.&nbsp; Thing to remember if you lose by one increment or get sniped is the bidder that beat your bid might have been willing to go a lot higher.&nbsp; Or there might have been multiple bidders willing to go higher.</p><p><br /></p><p>Getting sniped or beat by one increment is more likely in a rising market.&nbsp; Lots of folks base the max they’re willing to pay on price guides or past auction results.&nbsp; I usually do.&nbsp; These prices are based on history and are often too low when prices are going up.&nbsp; In a rising market to win, you may have to bid a record price for the type and grade.&nbsp;&nbsp; This can be psychologically hard to do.</p><p><br /></p><p>Cal[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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