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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 22042073, member: 13650"]Well, I'm probably the one you wanna talk to because I started about the same time you did and you've reached the point I did back around 2012. I had a US Type going in an intercept album that was actually really nice, but somebody got me interested in doing a US Type registry set on NGC. Anybody can do one. It's free to use. It's actually fun taking photos of new acquisitions and replacing the stock photos and just submitting your new coins to the set. Then it gives a price guide value next to it (unless it's a details coin then it doesn't assign any value, although there is value) and it assigns a set amount of points for the coin. Best of all you can view your set online any time, anywhere but there's no identifying info other than your username.</p><p> There are many different options for the US type there. The most popular being</p><p>"US Type Including moderns" Me and a friend do that one. It entails everything from the 1792 half Disme up to the new womens quarters. Clad and silver versions. All three types of the the 3 cent. All 3 types of the SLQs. But no gold. You may be annoyed by the seemingly endless Liberty seated versions across denoms but you may also like it. I don't know. There are shorter US Type options than this if you choose. This one is one of the few actively evolving options. So if a new dime comes out next year, it will be added to this one. A pre-64 set it would not be, of course. It's your choice.</p><p> I'm really satisfied with it. About 140 coins total. I've accepted there's probably 8 to 10 or so I'll never own unless I hit the lottery but the rest are attainable for me.</p><p> I'm currently sitting at 67% and ranked 89th out of about 1700, with a few more to be added soon. I can tell you at this point the $200-250 price level is rarely seen for the remainder of this set (that I have left) unless you're buying damaged, slick coins. Some are pretty hard to come by. I actually just sent in a draped bust half cent hoping for a straight grade on it.</p><p><br /></p><p> I did send some of my original set into get graded. Some I used that were already slabbed and already in my collection. As far as your coins here, you would probably be better off trading some in on already graded examples. The grading fees have gotten really bad for classic coins. It's $10 per form tier. If you have a modern it'll be another $10 for that tier. For classics its $40 a coin as the cheap option. If you want the coin to be attributed, that's another $18 on top and if you want a scratch resistant slab, which I always select because scratches are so annoying, that's another $5 per. Then it's minimum $28 to have 1-10 coins shipped back to you, which is relatively cheap with the insurance this day and age. Don't forget you also paid to get them there. Maybe you can piggy back with somebody else if you can. I can't. You can't afford to send them one at a time. You need to send large batches in to make it worth it if youre going to do it. One or two at a time is just cost prohibitive but if you want to do it you can.</p><p><br /></p><p> From the pics I think your flying eagle and 2 cent have a shot. I bought a loose 2 cent on ebay and submitted it myself and it came back MS-65RB. One of my best hits. I have that Flying eagle in MS-62 and yours looks as good as mine. The half cent isn't going to make it. I think the differnt colors you see indicate it has been messed with. To find a loose half sent above VG condition that isn't damaged, corroded or cleaned is nearly impossible. For many coppers, you just never know. For MOST coins you never know. When I send stuff, I'd say I can only ever be about 80% sure it will straight grade. I'm 80% sure on the half cent I sent in. To me it looks original but you really have no idea what they will see and what you're missing. If I get a details grade I will often just use the coin anyway because I liked it enough to purchase it. The moderns are much easier and I always try for top pops (70s, 69s). I'd say you've got a 50/50 chance on the 3 cent. Great details but scratches are never good. Sometimes they'll let it pass on a tiny coin but might just depend on the day whether it's cleaning or circulation scratches. The IHC is nice. It probably has a good chance but again, might be worth trading on one that's already graded to save the grading fee.</p><p><br /></p><p> My goal has just been to try for the nicest option I can afford in each slot. Sometimes I trade stuff in plus cash on some I've reached on. I've done it over many years. It's a challenging set but very interesting to look at. I use four Lighthouse albums for it and place them in the pages in the order they are in, in the registry. So you can page through them and see them just like a normal album even though everything is in slabs. It's just as enjoyable looking at the pics in the registry though for me as I have a pretty decent set up. </p><p> </p><p> PCGS does a registry too but NGC accepts both NGC and PCGS where as PCGS only accepts PCGS. If you want to go that route. It will give your collecting guidance. You don't have to worry about the points unless you want to. And then you can look at other people's sets as well. Many of the top sets have no pics which is a little suspect to me but there are some you can look at that are fantastically done.</p><p><br /></p><p> Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 22042073, member: 13650"]Well, I'm probably the one you wanna talk to because I started about the same time you did and you've reached the point I did back around 2012. I had a US Type going in an intercept album that was actually really nice, but somebody got me interested in doing a US Type registry set on NGC. Anybody can do one. It's free to use. It's actually fun taking photos of new acquisitions and replacing the stock photos and just submitting your new coins to the set. Then it gives a price guide value next to it (unless it's a details coin then it doesn't assign any value, although there is value) and it assigns a set amount of points for the coin. Best of all you can view your set online any time, anywhere but there's no identifying info other than your username. There are many different options for the US type there. The most popular being "US Type Including moderns" Me and a friend do that one. It entails everything from the 1792 half Disme up to the new womens quarters. Clad and silver versions. All three types of the the 3 cent. All 3 types of the SLQs. But no gold. You may be annoyed by the seemingly endless Liberty seated versions across denoms but you may also like it. I don't know. There are shorter US Type options than this if you choose. This one is one of the few actively evolving options. So if a new dime comes out next year, it will be added to this one. A pre-64 set it would not be, of course. It's your choice. I'm really satisfied with it. About 140 coins total. I've accepted there's probably 8 to 10 or so I'll never own unless I hit the lottery but the rest are attainable for me. I'm currently sitting at 67% and ranked 89th out of about 1700, with a few more to be added soon. I can tell you at this point the $200-250 price level is rarely seen for the remainder of this set (that I have left) unless you're buying damaged, slick coins. Some are pretty hard to come by. I actually just sent in a draped bust half cent hoping for a straight grade on it. I did send some of my original set into get graded. Some I used that were already slabbed and already in my collection. As far as your coins here, you would probably be better off trading some in on already graded examples. The grading fees have gotten really bad for classic coins. It's $10 per form tier. If you have a modern it'll be another $10 for that tier. For classics its $40 a coin as the cheap option. If you want the coin to be attributed, that's another $18 on top and if you want a scratch resistant slab, which I always select because scratches are so annoying, that's another $5 per. Then it's minimum $28 to have 1-10 coins shipped back to you, which is relatively cheap with the insurance this day and age. Don't forget you also paid to get them there. Maybe you can piggy back with somebody else if you can. I can't. You can't afford to send them one at a time. You need to send large batches in to make it worth it if youre going to do it. One or two at a time is just cost prohibitive but if you want to do it you can. From the pics I think your flying eagle and 2 cent have a shot. I bought a loose 2 cent on ebay and submitted it myself and it came back MS-65RB. One of my best hits. I have that Flying eagle in MS-62 and yours looks as good as mine. The half cent isn't going to make it. I think the differnt colors you see indicate it has been messed with. To find a loose half sent above VG condition that isn't damaged, corroded or cleaned is nearly impossible. For many coppers, you just never know. For MOST coins you never know. When I send stuff, I'd say I can only ever be about 80% sure it will straight grade. I'm 80% sure on the half cent I sent in. To me it looks original but you really have no idea what they will see and what you're missing. If I get a details grade I will often just use the coin anyway because I liked it enough to purchase it. The moderns are much easier and I always try for top pops (70s, 69s). I'd say you've got a 50/50 chance on the 3 cent. Great details but scratches are never good. Sometimes they'll let it pass on a tiny coin but might just depend on the day whether it's cleaning or circulation scratches. The IHC is nice. It probably has a good chance but again, might be worth trading on one that's already graded to save the grading fee. My goal has just been to try for the nicest option I can afford in each slot. Sometimes I trade stuff in plus cash on some I've reached on. I've done it over many years. It's a challenging set but very interesting to look at. I use four Lighthouse albums for it and place them in the pages in the order they are in, in the registry. So you can page through them and see them just like a normal album even though everything is in slabs. It's just as enjoyable looking at the pics in the registry though for me as I have a pretty decent set up. PCGS does a registry too but NGC accepts both NGC and PCGS where as PCGS only accepts PCGS. If you want to go that route. It will give your collecting guidance. You don't have to worry about the points unless you want to. And then you can look at other people's sets as well. Many of the top sets have no pics which is a little suspect to me but there are some you can look at that are fantastically done. Hope this helps.[/QUOTE]
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