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<p>[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2445666, member: 24314"]Actually, <span style="color: #8000ff">I use a stereo microscope</span> to examine coins and the hairlines, bagmarks, scratches, rub, and repairs are EXTREMELY EASY to see using two eyes and florescent light.</p><p><br /></p><p>Since most collectors do not have the luxury of the scope, its very important that they use florescent light ONLY to detect luster loss or for authentication. They'll need the incandescent light to finalize the grade. That's why they also should have both lights as I do. When I play with a new purchase, I use incandescent light to write it up and for the first look. Next, it goes under the scope. I'll look at it again using incandescent light to judge its "flash" and eye appeal.</p><p><br /></p><p>Probably more important is to tip and rotate the coin in whatever light you use in order to see all of its characteristics.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Insider, post: 2445666, member: 24314"]Actually, [COLOR=#8000ff]I use a stereo microscope[/COLOR] to examine coins and the hairlines, bagmarks, scratches, rub, and repairs are EXTREMELY EASY to see using two eyes and florescent light. Since most collectors do not have the luxury of the scope, its very important that they use florescent light ONLY to detect luster loss or for authentication. They'll need the incandescent light to finalize the grade. That's why they also should have both lights as I do. When I play with a new purchase, I use incandescent light to write it up and for the first look. Next, it goes under the scope. I'll look at it again using incandescent light to judge its "flash" and eye appeal. Probably more important is to tip and rotate the coin in whatever light you use in order to see all of its characteristics.[/QUOTE]
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