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<p>[QUOTE="tcore, post: 130539, member: 2949"]Hi jimij,</p><p> </p><p>I have bought from Teletrade and Heritage both. I too like to buy only certified coins online. I've had great experiences with both. I base the price I'm willing to pay on many things. To summarize them, I usually look at previous prices realized at auction, the redbook prices, current coin magazine prices, etc. and try to come up with a number. I also take into account the census numbers from NGC and PCGS and also the mintage, though the mintage often times can be deceptive. I try to form a cummulative assessment given all of these sources about what I'm willing to pay for something. Also, I truly try to find coins with nice eye appeal to me. Sometimes, you will have to pay a bit more for coins with good eye appeal. You can have two coins graded exactly the same by the same company and one can still look a lot nicer than the other.</p><p> </p><p>In mid to high MS grades, it's been my observation that for many coins, the prices at auction can do all kinds of crazy things. Often times, the price for one grade step, say from 62 to 63 can double or triple the price of a coin, so you have to take that into account too. This generally is not the case if you're bidding on coins and the difference is VF30 to VF35. </p><p> </p><p>Funny things happen at auctions such as... If people see a coin graded MS62, but they think it should grade a 63...you could go into the auction expecting to win it for, let's say $400, but all of a sudden, the price is at $650. I've seen this happen any number of times.</p><p> </p><p>Generally, with the auctions I've won, they usually end up about 1 bid increment above where I wanted to wind up at, but oh well. You'll be hard pressed to get any real steals at any of the major, well publicized auctions.</p><p> </p><p>Also, as far as online auctions go and having to pay buyer's premiums and shipping, I just figure that into the cost of the coin. So, for each time I place a bid, I calculate what the total cost of the coin will be with all fees added and that's what I consider my bid to be at that time. I don't know that there's much of a difference in prices from online auctions to shows, but I haven't been to many shows so I'll let somebody else speak to that. </p><p> </p><p>Anyway, that's just some thoughts I have. :hail:[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="tcore, post: 130539, member: 2949"]Hi jimij, I have bought from Teletrade and Heritage both. I too like to buy only certified coins online. I've had great experiences with both. I base the price I'm willing to pay on many things. To summarize them, I usually look at previous prices realized at auction, the redbook prices, current coin magazine prices, etc. and try to come up with a number. I also take into account the census numbers from NGC and PCGS and also the mintage, though the mintage often times can be deceptive. I try to form a cummulative assessment given all of these sources about what I'm willing to pay for something. Also, I truly try to find coins with nice eye appeal to me. Sometimes, you will have to pay a bit more for coins with good eye appeal. You can have two coins graded exactly the same by the same company and one can still look a lot nicer than the other. In mid to high MS grades, it's been my observation that for many coins, the prices at auction can do all kinds of crazy things. Often times, the price for one grade step, say from 62 to 63 can double or triple the price of a coin, so you have to take that into account too. This generally is not the case if you're bidding on coins and the difference is VF30 to VF35. Funny things happen at auctions such as... If people see a coin graded MS62, but they think it should grade a 63...you could go into the auction expecting to win it for, let's say $400, but all of a sudden, the price is at $650. I've seen this happen any number of times. Generally, with the auctions I've won, they usually end up about 1 bid increment above where I wanted to wind up at, but oh well. You'll be hard pressed to get any real steals at any of the major, well publicized auctions. Also, as far as online auctions go and having to pay buyer's premiums and shipping, I just figure that into the cost of the coin. So, for each time I place a bid, I calculate what the total cost of the coin will be with all fees added and that's what I consider my bid to be at that time. I don't know that there's much of a difference in prices from online auctions to shows, but I haven't been to many shows so I'll let somebody else speak to that. Anyway, that's just some thoughts I have. :hail:[/QUOTE]
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