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<p>[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2321311, member: 1892"]Welcome to Coin Talk, Nicole. Allow me to apologize in advance for any curmudgeons who might stop in; we have a couple. Their hearts are right but their keyboards ain't so hot. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>Allow me to qualify what I'm about to post with the caveat that your images aren't flawless, and it's never smart to form firm opinions from one single set of a given coin. Coin photography can be deceptive even if that's not the photographer's intent, so there's a certain amount of "from <i><b>these</b></i> images I see...." in any evaluation. And it's preferable to image coins outside their containers, although in this case you're right in keeping them in the flips until you know more about them.</p><p><br /></p><p>I'll start with the 1910 and go in order. From <b><i>these</i></b> pics:</p><p><br /></p><p>1910: I really like it. The codes on the top right of the 2x2 mean "Choice Uncirculated, Red-Brown" which is a general indicator of grade and color. Lincoln Cents start out bright copper colored, and numismatists refer to that as "Red" when describing color. That's a more original and therefore more desirable state, and Red Lincolns are more valuable than darker ones. As they age, they can darken to what's called "Brown," and Red-Brown (RB) is the state between them.</p><p><br /></p><p>I love what I see for color although there may be those who distrust its' originality. I'm thinking the Choice Uncirculated term might be appropriate here. Nice coin, and if it's truly "Choice Uncirculated" I'd consider going over $30 for it for my own collection.</p><p><br /></p><p>1943: Typical Steel wartime Cent with what looks like corrosion on the obverse. These are common, even in very high grade, so although yours looks rather nice technically, if that's actual corrosion it's probably not worth saving although you don't want to throw it away. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p>1909's: Agreed with Dan that these are the "best" of the bunch from a preservation standpoint. ANA is American Numismatic Association, and the "ANA 65/65" means the writer felt the coin met ANA standards (they're the folks who publish the standards which collectors theoretically grade from) for MS65 on both obverse and reverse. Both 1909's are nice value-added Reds from the looks of things, and although not lottery wins they could be worth anything from $25+ on up depending on grade. Nice liquid coins, and I'd happily own them. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> </p><p><br /></p><p>The Morgans are common issues, the San Francisco coin being in somewhat better shape but neither offer a ton of value above "minimal" for common Morgans. Morgan Dollars are more plentiful than a beginning collector might think.</p><p><br /></p><p>1888: A common Indian Head Cent, not worth a ton. Have a very_close_look at the bottom left of the second 8 in the date - there's a very popular variety with the date punched over an 1887, and on it you can see the remains of the bottom of the 7 at that spot on the 8.</p><p><br /></p><p>2 Cent: This one could be worth a few bucks, depending on condition. It's the last year of large-scale production of that issue and they made fewer than a million, enough in the real world to give it value relative to scarcity. Generally, from what I can see the "grades" marked on these aren't too far off reality - the writer seems to know what he's doing - so if we assume the 2C is actually "Fine Plus" it's probably the most valuable coin of the bunch.</p><p><br /></p><p>There's a lot to stimulate an interest in numismatics here. <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="SuperDave, post: 2321311, member: 1892"]Welcome to Coin Talk, Nicole. Allow me to apologize in advance for any curmudgeons who might stop in; we have a couple. Their hearts are right but their keyboards ain't so hot. :) Allow me to qualify what I'm about to post with the caveat that your images aren't flawless, and it's never smart to form firm opinions from one single set of a given coin. Coin photography can be deceptive even if that's not the photographer's intent, so there's a certain amount of "from [I][B]these[/B][/I] images I see...." in any evaluation. And it's preferable to image coins outside their containers, although in this case you're right in keeping them in the flips until you know more about them. I'll start with the 1910 and go in order. From [B][I]these[/I][/B] pics: 1910: I really like it. The codes on the top right of the 2x2 mean "Choice Uncirculated, Red-Brown" which is a general indicator of grade and color. Lincoln Cents start out bright copper colored, and numismatists refer to that as "Red" when describing color. That's a more original and therefore more desirable state, and Red Lincolns are more valuable than darker ones. As they age, they can darken to what's called "Brown," and Red-Brown (RB) is the state between them. I love what I see for color although there may be those who distrust its' originality. I'm thinking the Choice Uncirculated term might be appropriate here. Nice coin, and if it's truly "Choice Uncirculated" I'd consider going over $30 for it for my own collection. 1943: Typical Steel wartime Cent with what looks like corrosion on the obverse. These are common, even in very high grade, so although yours looks rather nice technically, if that's actual corrosion it's probably not worth saving although you don't want to throw it away. :) 1909's: Agreed with Dan that these are the "best" of the bunch from a preservation standpoint. ANA is American Numismatic Association, and the "ANA 65/65" means the writer felt the coin met ANA standards (they're the folks who publish the standards which collectors theoretically grade from) for MS65 on both obverse and reverse. Both 1909's are nice value-added Reds from the looks of things, and although not lottery wins they could be worth anything from $25+ on up depending on grade. Nice liquid coins, and I'd happily own them. :) The Morgans are common issues, the San Francisco coin being in somewhat better shape but neither offer a ton of value above "minimal" for common Morgans. Morgan Dollars are more plentiful than a beginning collector might think. 1888: A common Indian Head Cent, not worth a ton. Have a very_close_look at the bottom left of the second 8 in the date - there's a very popular variety with the date punched over an 1887, and on it you can see the remains of the bottom of the 7 at that spot on the 8. 2 Cent: This one could be worth a few bucks, depending on condition. It's the last year of large-scale production of that issue and they made fewer than a million, enough in the real world to give it value relative to scarcity. Generally, from what I can see the "grades" marked on these aren't too far off reality - the writer seems to know what he's doing - so if we assume the 2C is actually "Fine Plus" it's probably the most valuable coin of the bunch. There's a lot to stimulate an interest in numismatics here. :)[/QUOTE]
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Help looking for any info on US coins I inherited
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