Hear no evil, see no evil...

Discussion in 'Ancient Coins' started by TIF, Oct 19, 2015.

  1. Ancientnoob

    Ancientnoob Money Changer

    OK...


    Holy Crap!!! That's phat!!!
     
    TIF likes this.
  2. Avatar

    Guest User Guest



    to hide this ad.
  3. brassnautilus

    brassnautilus Well-Known Member

    CAD uses absolute coordinates. For organic shapes like these you'd want some kind of mudbox that describes surfaces in derivatives, Zbrush for example.

    Instead of engraving (EDM), probably would be easier producing mirrors of the dies, with 3D print, in UV resin. This way the "masters" can be manually altered to rid all the tool marks, and it'd be easy to obtain fairly high resolution with 3D printers that have small build spaces. Cast finished die mirrors into wax then loss-wax cast the dies in metal.

    For hardcore DIY we have tools ancient engravers couldn't even dream of like microscopes and micro chisels.
    [​IMG]
     
    TIF likes this.
  4. TIF

    TIF Always learning.

    I've been researching different CAD programs... gosh they are expensive. Plus, I may need to get a second computer dedicated to that use. Too many decisions! I've been wanting to learn CAD design for coins and jewelry. One of these days I'll bite the bullet. Not looking forward to the learning curve though.
     
    Voldemort and Ancientnoob like this.
  5. brassnautilus

    brassnautilus Well-Known Member

    download a cracked version of zbrush 4R5 (or newer) for freeeee :) Torrent.
    If you were considering a PC for 3D work, please keep in mind that 3D programs don't use video cards (or video ram). Fast harddrives on other hand (especially these gen 2 m.2 drives) makes more difference by saving and loading lighting fast.

    If you use one of the more professional 3D printing services, 2 micron dynamic resolution is obtainable at affordable prices (to you for sure), since your items are so small, even the slowest machine wouldn't take too long to print it.
    You should also locate a jeweler that does loss wax casting if you plan to go that route. The ones that make settings in precious metal. That stuff is tough and you'll be using it so little even if you had mastered it, not worth the efforts.
     
  6. TIF

    TIF Always learning.

    Once I get to that point, I'l price out direct engraving of the dies vs. lost wax casting of 3D printed waxes. I may be able to do the casting myself but would probably farm it out.

    At the moment, the software which is most tempting is one of the ArtCam products. I'll check out zbrush though, thanks!
     
  7. brassnautilus

    brassnautilus Well-Known Member

    The mold that produced this head (1:6 scale in vinyl, the face is size of a drachm) was produced with loss wax (brass mold).
    The master was hand sculpted cold/hot wax. Easier to do this with 3D print, then refine the print manually.
    [​IMG]
     
    stevex6 and TIF like this.
  8. stevex6

    stevex6 Random Mayhem

Draft saved Draft deleted

Share This Page