If I was to do something stupid as that ,I wouldn't expect anything less .. I purchased that coin because of the toning , it's my pride and joy!!
Seriously though the coins that I'm considering one of these products for are common date unc mercurys .. The hazy look that I mentioned is almost a milky looking haze, I have no idea what it is or what caused it. Any thoughts??
No, coin care should not remove any metal, it just puts oil on the surface ( fake luster) as it dissolves gunk. Getting the gunk off the coin without rubbing is often the problem. It can be detected by a 'sniffer' Ez-Est ( formerly Jeweluster) is sulfuric acid /thiourea solution . The acid removes the sulfides ( tarnish) and the thiourea, makes a soluble solution to wash them away. I have always recommended that low concentrations are used to prevent over reaction that removes the 'ridges' of the coin metal that makes the 'wagonwheel' luster effect. I dilute it to 1/10 strength for single use ( keep the rest in container at full strength until need to use), rinse well with water and then with acetone and hold in air by edge until dry ( it does so quickly) , put in protective holder. MSDS: http://www.wizardcoinsupply.com/files/images/E-Z-Est-MSDS.pdf
I had a bunch of clad proofs halves and ikes from roll hunting that had haze on them. A quick dip in ammonia and then water cleaned them up nicely. I don't know if is a good idea on silver though.
Haze, or what most commonly refer to as haze anyway, is the beginning stages of toning. As such, acetone will not remove haze or affect it in any way. Neither will xylene, or anything else, short of coin dip. Coin dip will remove haze, and any other toning. But unless you have a good deal of experience using coin dip, you would be best advised to not use it for it is all too easy to permanently damage a coin with coin dip. That said, there are contaminants that can get on coins and cause the coin to have a hazy looking appearance. PVC residue for example, in its early stages, can have a hazy looking appearance because in its early stages it is clear. Some oils can also have a hazy look to them, as do a few commercial coin products. The problem is you can seldom tell with any degree of certainty what exactly, if anything, is on a coin. And because of that you seldom know what exactly what to use to try and safely remove it because different contaminants require different things to remove them. But there is a simple process to follow to try and remove the contaminant, if there is one, on the coin. Rinsing and or soaking in distilled water is the first step. If that doesn't work, then you try acetone. And if that doesn't work, then you try xylene. And if that doesn't work, then a coin dip is the only thing left. But as stated before if you do not have experience with it you are best advised to not try dipping a coin. Coin Care, the product that was mentioned, although it has been used by many and is often touted as a great product, instantly turns any coin into a problem coin. As Jim said a couple of times already, Coin Care contains oils and when used it leaves oils on the surface of the coin. On copper coins it even creates false luster, less so on silver or gold, but the oil is still there. And because of that, by definition, the coin is a problem coin. Part of the reason that Coin Care is touted as being a good product is because unless you are very experienced Coin Care is hard to detect. And at times it has even fooled the TPGs and coins with Coin Care on them have been slabbed. Coin Care is one of the reasons that the TPGs began using the "coin sniffer", because it was getting by some of their graders. But the "sniffer" is only used on some coins, only those coins submitted under the Secure Plus grading tier are run through the "sniffer". All other coins are not. So you do not, repeat do not, want to use Coin Care ! Barber dime 94s - what I would suggest that you do is post some pictures of the coins you are talking about. Then we may be able to offer some advice on what you should do, or not.
Thank you I believe you may be right on with saying it could be the beginning stage of toning , you can turn the coin one angle it will appear to have a milky haze , turn it another angle it will look as if it has patches of goldish/brown toning. Very light toning as if possibly just starting. I will do as you say and leave coin care alone. I appreciate the help everyone . I will try and get a couple photos, just not sure if I can get this haze to show up on a photo with this phone.
What? No catalog-speak? "Pools of luxurious cartwheel lustre compete for the eye's attention with concentric swirls of russet, tangerine, and topaz." Which means: "Ooh, shiny. I see wed, and and ornenge, and and bwoo, too."
It will dampen the color on copper, make it less vivid. You won't tell that when you drop it in acetone for a half-hour then look at it, as you'll forget what it looked like. Look at the color good, put a few drops of acetone on it, let the acetone evaporate, quickly, then look at it. That's the only way.
Periwinkle is on every coin, it's just that most people don't know it. As such, they need it described. For example, supposing you take a quick look at a coin and you don't see any periwinkle. That coin should properly be described as having a hint of periwinkle. Supposing you look for an hour and a half, and you still don't see any periwinkle. That coin should properly be described as having a subtle hint of periwinkle. Supposing no matter how long you look, you don't see any periwinkle. That coin should properly be described as having a subtle, elusive hint of periwinkle. That way these buyers paying for periwinkle know they're getting their money's worth, and are not being conned.
Here's a couple photos of the coins in question. This haze only shows from certain angles , it was tough to get a photo of it. The 1939 it seems to be patches of this white haze while the 1943 has it all over.
I believe it is the beginning stages of corrosion /toning ( which ever term you like as they are the same process). But it shouldn't hurt to try acetone. You might try 91% isopropyll alcohol dip first if you have it as it won't hurt either, and it is intermediate between water and acetone in action. Neither will alter toning / corrosion.