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<p>[QUOTE="lehmansterms, post: 3429334, member: 80804"]Just a little advice, in case this inspires you (as I hope it may) to go further with ancient coins: when asking for ID help (or even just working on them yourself) it's really a good idea to look at them/photograph them one at a time. Except in the fairly unlikely case that all have exactly the same "finish", your camera is going to try to average-out the exposure and some will come out darker, some lighter than they actually look.</p><p>Center the coin in your viewfinder as large as you can make the image <i>while still keeping it in focus!. </i>Make sure there is enough light shining on the piece to illuminate the surface - some will need more, some less light than others. Some may benefit from oblique lighting that accentuates contrast created by shadows revealed by the oblique lighting. </p><p>If you take a few seconds to consider each piece as a separate photographic subject, you will get far better results no matter what sort of camera you're using. Also - it wasn't an issue here, but often people asking for ID's on a group of coins will pile 8 or 10 into a single email/request, and then it becomes a question of which answer goes with which coin - and an additional, unnecessary riddle to be certain which obverses match which reverses - of course, if you have wherewithal to "stitch" obverse and reverse images together, that's ideal and will prevent that possible ambiguity/confusion in multiple-piece lots.</p><p>We're here, though - and there's almost always someone who will recognize pieces, regardless of how obscure they seem at first, as well as those who are willing to help you with ID's of even the most obscure types.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="lehmansterms, post: 3429334, member: 80804"]Just a little advice, in case this inspires you (as I hope it may) to go further with ancient coins: when asking for ID help (or even just working on them yourself) it's really a good idea to look at them/photograph them one at a time. Except in the fairly unlikely case that all have exactly the same "finish", your camera is going to try to average-out the exposure and some will come out darker, some lighter than they actually look. Center the coin in your viewfinder as large as you can make the image [I]while still keeping it in focus!. [/I]Make sure there is enough light shining on the piece to illuminate the surface - some will need more, some less light than others. Some may benefit from oblique lighting that accentuates contrast created by shadows revealed by the oblique lighting. If you take a few seconds to consider each piece as a separate photographic subject, you will get far better results no matter what sort of camera you're using. Also - it wasn't an issue here, but often people asking for ID's on a group of coins will pile 8 or 10 into a single email/request, and then it becomes a question of which answer goes with which coin - and an additional, unnecessary riddle to be certain which obverses match which reverses - of course, if you have wherewithal to "stitch" obverse and reverse images together, that's ideal and will prevent that possible ambiguity/confusion in multiple-piece lots. We're here, though - and there's almost always someone who will recognize pieces, regardless of how obscure they seem at first, as well as those who are willing to help you with ID's of even the most obscure types.[/QUOTE]
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Having trouble identifying these coins.
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