ProofRon, I would advise to learn all that you can about grading Business Strike and Proof Coins. Grade every coin in every Proof and Mint Set that you have, insuring that you lean a little on the conservative side so as to not overgrade and catalog each coin and grade on a spreadsheet. Make sure to number each set with a stick on price sticker or similar sticker to keep track of the coins. On the spreadsheet you want to create a denomination at the top then set number and value down the side. In the individual blocks, place the grade for coin under the denomination and out from the correct number for the set. Once you have completed the grading and the spreadsheet, you will then be able to see which are the higher graded coins and if there are several high grade coins within one particular set. Using a good (true) value guide such as the CoinValues magazine or you could use PCGS' Price Guide as long as you remember that they are a little high on most coins, you want to price each and every coin on the spreadsheet and place the price within the same black as the grade. In this way, you will be able to total the values for each set to the right and compare those values to the current value of each intact Proof or Mint Set. If there are a few Proof or Mint Sets that have coins with a total value which is much higher than the value of the intact sets, then these might be the ones you would want to break up and send them in to a TPG for grading and certification. Note: You must weigh the expected return against what you paid for the sets and the total cost of sending the coins in for grading and certification, before you make a decision. Good luck and happy grading! Frank
Frank I hope you said that joking?....because saying that CoinValues is a true value guide is pretty much a joke. In most cases I think they are just as bad as PCGS price guide---the best true price guide is ended online auctions...and then as always the Gray Sheet Speedy
Frank- Are not a Mathematician by any chance? I am, and I have done almost exactly what you suggested. Bought several grading books and magnifiers, purchased several bags of coins and visited dealers to learn to grade, developed an Excel spreadsheet that contains PCGS and Numismedia prices and Heritage realized prices, and info on what certification numbers and grades I receive from TPG's. I've sent in some complete proof sets for grading, and have cracked out some with specific coins that seemed to have good value. I've tried to follow most of the good advice I've received on this forum- my problem now is with the TPG's not grading any of my coins at the PR70 level, although I cannot find anything wrong with them.
Ron - Grading is something that can take years, even decades to master. Some learn faster than others depending of whether or not they have someone to teach them and the number of coins they are exposed to. Perhaps Ken Bressett ( the guy who helped write the book ) said it best - "Grading is really very simple. All you need is four things. 1 - A good magnifying glass 2 - A good light 3 - A good memory, and 4 - 20 years of experince" But somebody also once wrote - you gotta start someplace. So, you're on your way to learning how to grade. But please realize, I doubt there are a handful of people in the entire world who can pick out PF70 or MS70 coins to submit for grading. Even some of the most experienced will only get 1 out of a 1,000 they submit - and that's with each one being hand picked. So don't plan on being able to do that anytime soon. Instead, focus your energy and effort on just being able to grade period. It usually easier to learn one series at a time, get good at that one series and then move on to the next series. In a few years, 30 or 40 thousand coins later you'll know how to grade a few series of coins. It takes a lifetime to learn them all - few ever do.
I am learning that the hard way, but I'm beginning to understand some of the resentment collector's feel towards TPG's who grade low to get re-submissions. GDJMSP- As an aside- I notice that you use the "PF70" grade, and the Red Book uses "PF" for proof coins, whereas PCGS and Heritage use "PR" for proof grades. I couldn't find anything in the ANA Grading Standards book other than their using the term "Proof-xx". So- are "PF" and "PR" interchangeable?
I would not agree with that comment at all. Even though I am not a PCGS fan, I wouldn't say that about them. And they are the only grading company that I have ever heard anyone else say that about. I am however firmly convinced that PCGS is the most inconsistent grading company there is. But that is quite different than saying that they intentionally undergrade. I would have one caveat - and that is in regard to the 70 grade only. I also firmly believe that PCGS flatly refuses to assign the 70 grades to coins are deserving of the 70 grade. As to why they do this I can only speculate. There are several abbreviations that are different but yet mean the same thing - such as those mentioned already - PF = PR, UCAM = DCAM, XF = EF etc. It just depends to what you are used to using.