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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Vess1, post: 24492329, member: 13650&quot;]Yeah, I played this game a while back.&nbsp; Bought a 1917 at a show that at the time, before I got more educated, looked great to me.&nbsp; Bright, white flashy.&nbsp;&nbsp; Full details like that one.&nbsp; Was no reason to have been cleaned.&nbsp; Sent it in to NGC to be graded for registry set.&nbsp;&nbsp; Came back AU Details cleaned.&nbsp;&nbsp; I traded it off on a nicer, graded one.&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp; If I see thumbnail pics like that on ebay, I usually wont even click on it.&nbsp; If you&#039;re a regular seller, there&#039;s no reason to have pics by candle light nowadays unless hiding something.&nbsp;&nbsp; Some coins like this have been whizzed in the past and the lines are so fine from the buffing they can be hard to see in any picture or even in hand.&nbsp;&nbsp; When looking at any loose SLQ in this good of condition, I would go in assuming it&#039;s been cleaned until proven otherwise. </p><p><br /></p><p>&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; This is where the slabs make or break the deals.&nbsp; It&#039;s about identifying the proper price for the piece for both parties involved.&nbsp; Not just being in plastic.&nbsp; &nbsp; Sellers love selling raw coins because they&#039;re trying to get full price as if it were graded at that level when it may be cleaned and nearly unsellable at half the price if it was certified.&nbsp;&nbsp; </p><p>&nbsp;&nbsp; Nearly every coin that looks decent and is raw has been messed with.&nbsp; Go in with that assumption and then maybe occasionally you&#039;ll find one that hasn&#039;t been.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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