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<p>[QUOTE="Cringely, post: 1331218, member: 22271"]A year ago, at the Long Beach show, I bought a (F-15 in my opinion) 1795 small eagle dollar for $3,300 using cash. I sent it into PCGS for grading. It cam back as "Questionable Authenticity" (PCGS-speak for counterfeit). This particular coin was a Chinese counterfeit that actually was portrayed in a Coin World column. Because I had a receipt, I was able to get my money back (the dealer even paid the extra $50 I spent on getting it graded).</p><p><br /></p><p>No consider the situation were, instead of a $3,300 coin, I had bought a 1926-S Buffalo nickel in fine condition for $80 (plus tax) and it turned out to be counterfeit. Without a receipt, I would be out $80 (plus tax). In one sense, even small transactions (pick your lower limit, mine is $25) need proof-of-purchase.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Cringely, post: 1331218, member: 22271"]A year ago, at the Long Beach show, I bought a (F-15 in my opinion) 1795 small eagle dollar for $3,300 using cash. I sent it into PCGS for grading. It cam back as "Questionable Authenticity" (PCGS-speak for counterfeit). This particular coin was a Chinese counterfeit that actually was portrayed in a Coin World column. Because I had a receipt, I was able to get my money back (the dealer even paid the extra $50 I spent on getting it graded). No consider the situation were, instead of a $3,300 coin, I had bought a 1926-S Buffalo nickel in fine condition for $80 (plus tax) and it turned out to be counterfeit. Without a receipt, I would be out $80 (plus tax). In one sense, even small transactions (pick your lower limit, mine is $25) need proof-of-purchase.[/QUOTE]
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