Handheld USB microscope opinions.

I hope I discouraged no one. I did orient the scope the right way but I think I bought the wrong stand, cause the moving arm stand caused the cord to get bumbed to the scope and this would tilt the picture on the screen. You have to have the scope immoveable as it is too sensitive. I mostly didn't like the LED light look on the coins which can be seen in the pics on this post-coins look washed out. Maybe you guys have overcome that, somehow??

 

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Take a look at this one. I heard that it is a nice one for the price.
http://cgi.ebay.com/200X-1-3-Mega-P...5|66:2|65:12|39:1|240:1318|301:1|293:1|294:50

 

Just an observation with the Celestron. Take notice you can only view at 20x and 400x nothing inbetween. My opinion, I would want one that lets you do some magnafication inbetween.

 

The built-in lights so near the optic pickup causes reflections on a shiny or reflective surface such as a coin. It's okay to have subdued direct lighting on a coin for photography but the major lighting should be from the sides. his provides light for the coin and also enhances the raised portions of the coin. The only way to eliminate the direct glare from the LEDs is to either cover them altogether (not especially easy to do) or use the viewer at a greater distance. Of course, that means reduced magnification.

 

The location I have this setup is not most ideal location for lighting, especially during the day since it floods with natural bright light. The LED's on the scope can be turned off and there are numerous settings of which I don't really know what they are, but you can adjust them and watch the display change. I'll have wait until late evening to play with the settings with the LED's off. I was also incorrect above, you can zoom without touching the scope and it seems to work pretty well. I'm going to post some screen shots of the menu's so you can see the adjustments that can be made.

 

Better said than I could davidh. That was my main problem with this product as well as the oversensitivity. I will check out the other links people have provided because I would love a functional product to remove the buggers from coins with very close magnification to ensure no scratching.

 

Thanks sir (your username is too hard to remember??). Keep it coming. I would repurchase if I could use it functionally and maybe I returned in haste?? I didn't get this far. Returned it and bought a 1910 S MS 64 RB Lincoln instead. I really like that coin.

 

I'm not trying to sell anyone on it, I just think I can provide more detailed information than what you'd find on the net from a first hand perspective. I certainly don't think it's for everyone, but for newb like me I think it will help plus since I'm trying to teach myself how to weld, I can use it to look at my crappy welds

I can already see that it will probably take different settings for different types of coins, copper vs silver, dull vs shiny, etc, at least for pictures. But if I'm just looking for errors or surface imperfections it probably wont matter much.

PS: xtrmbrdr = Extreme Boarder I use to like to go into to backcountry and snowboard, about 25lbs ago and -1 kid ago, x for short or Fred, just don't call me late for happy hour :kewl:

 

The Celestron 44300 and 44302 have variable power. The 44302 is 10x-40x and 150x and comes with a stand. Here is a link. http://www.celestron.com/c3/product.php?CatID=78&ProdID=557

 

xtrmbrdr,

Thanks for the pics, much appreciated. I'm also in the market for a scope and have been looking at the Dino-Lite series myself. I'm VERY pleased to learn that you can toggle the LEDs on and off. As far as lighting without the LEDs on, there are some pretty simple ways to get good lighting. Pick up a couple of cheap goose-neck lamps and use "natural daylight" bulbs in them and place them to the sides of the subject. Experiment with the placement for better highlighting, no glare, etc. Another useful tip, I believe, is to create a simple "tent lighting" effect. This can be accomplished by using a translucent one-gallon milk jug with the bottom cut off and a hole cut for the camera to focus through. This will create a diffused effect for the lighting as well.

Now that you've had more time to experiment with your scope, what do you think? I'm already impressed with the photos you've posted, but have you improved on your technique?

Thanks!

 

Hi, sounds like you folks are pretty adept at "Coin Photography" . I am not.

I am considering purchasing a digital camera this month to get started. Any suggestions on makes/models, special features, etc? A local friend is also experimenting with these skills, and he is a pro photographer. He has purchased a box and uses some household lamps, and experimenting also. Buy the book " Coin photography" ????

 

Coinman,

I use a Canon EOS 1000D Rebel XS. It has a 10.1 megapixel image sensor and can be used by novices in fully auto mode as well as by "experts" to tweak pretty much every setting. The software package is pretty nice and fairly easy to use. It does a great job, excellent colors, great macro, etc. It does not take video of your kids running around, though. I swear by newegg.com for "expensive" electronics and highly recommend going through the user reviews and feedback there for your purchases, as the community is very helpful.

If you have a budget in mind, make sure to buy the best image sensor you can afford for the money. I also recommend an EOS-type camera as you can buy additional lenses down the road for specific photography needs.

A tripod stand for holding the camera is a must! Even with stabilization, your hand will not be steady enough for sharp photos. I use my stand and the 10-second timer to make sure there are absolutely no vibrations when the lens is opened.

I'm still a novice at photography, but I've had terrific results in a short amount of time.

I like the idea of a scope, too, and am currently researching. My camera will be used for images posted, but the scope may be more convenient for VAM identification, etc.

 

oh great info. Thank you so much. I stopped by my local Radio shack and told him what I was primarily going to use the camera for. He suggested some $89.00 Camera, not sure what mfgr it was exactly, but I wanted to get some forum opinions before I make any purchase. I'm not to certain about his recommendation. If I am going to buy, I want to buy the right equipment.

 

In my opinion - If your are serious about error and variety collecting - a stereoscope is your best investment.

 

Yes for sure.

 

........in addition, this club info may be of interest.

http://coins.about.com/od/errorcoinsdievarieties/f/coneca_faq.htm?nl=1

 

thanks. I'll check it out.

 

In general I am very pleased with the scope, it's great! I like not having to look thru a loupe or a magnifing glass to look at coins, all I have to do is look at the screen on my laptop. I hate the stand and I would never recommend it. It bounces if you even think about touching it which makes it hard to focus the scope, part of the problem is that you have turn the dial on the scope itself to increase the magnification, which is really my only gripe about the scope, you can however zoom in and out without touching to scope. However, a better stand would eliminate most of this hassle. A good stand tho, can reach or exceed the cost of the scope, I've been looking at this one, or making something myself.

I haven't played much with the photo part of the scope since I bought a 14mb Canon EOS XSi, which is a whole new world of f-stops, ISO, appetures and white balance. It has an auto mode but that's not typically the mode for shooting coins.

 

So, every thing said, what is the best product for the price for an intermediate coin collecter?

 

While I agree that a stereoscope is best for most, it won't work for me as I was born with one blind eye, lol! I'm leaning toward the same model that xtrmbrdr purchased with a much better stand. I love the idea of being able to zoom on coins while viewing on my pc screens, which are top-end models.