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<p>[QUOTE="desertgem, post: 2702417, member: 15199"]Dessicants only deal with moisture in the air, do you have any paper stored in the safe with the coins? If so , are you very certain the paper wasn't made with sulfur for bleaching the wood fibers? The dessicant packs must be monitored and rejuvenated when saturated. Leave some scrubbed bright ( with wire brush or scrubber) modern post 1982 cents from change open in the safe. The 100% copper shell will react before most of your numismatic coins will. If they start to show darker surfaces, they are exposed to and reacting with undesired gases from somewhere, so scrub them again and put them back on the job. Or you can use expensive coin products which do the same thing.</p><p><br /></p><p>I think Verdicare and its predecessor Verdi-gone are very effective when caught early. I have a couple of threads from several years ago with experiments also. Once the damage has reached a certain progression, nothing can return the damaged metal. Jim[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="desertgem, post: 2702417, member: 15199"]Dessicants only deal with moisture in the air, do you have any paper stored in the safe with the coins? If so , are you very certain the paper wasn't made with sulfur for bleaching the wood fibers? The dessicant packs must be monitored and rejuvenated when saturated. Leave some scrubbed bright ( with wire brush or scrubber) modern post 1982 cents from change open in the safe. The 100% copper shell will react before most of your numismatic coins will. If they start to show darker surfaces, they are exposed to and reacting with undesired gases from somewhere, so scrub them again and put them back on the job. Or you can use expensive coin products which do the same thing. I think Verdicare and its predecessor Verdi-gone are very effective when caught early. I have a couple of threads from several years ago with experiments also. Once the damage has reached a certain progression, nothing can return the damaged metal. Jim[/QUOTE]
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