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<p>[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 698544, member: 13650"]Here's the same set up as I listed above but shooting a loose coin. </p><p><br /></p><p> <img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/Coin%20Album1/IMG_0366.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p><img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/Coin%20Album1/IMG_0365.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" /></p><p><br /></p><p> </p><p> One easy thing you can do that will help is always have one lighting source. You don't want day light and artificial light. Only one or the other. Then you don't want two different artificial lights. The camera can't adjust and it will screw up the color.</p><p><br /></p><p> Once you're under one light source, if your camera has it, always be sure to fill the view finder with something pure white under that light (in manual mode) get in custom white balance and hit ok or set. That tells the camera what pure white looks like under the particular lighting you're using. AWB works ok, but setting it manually is much better. That's one easy battle to get out of the way before you start.</p><p><br /></p><p> A cheap macro lens can really help with close ups too. As high tech as that camera looks, I would not be able to take good close ups without the macro lens attachment. My marco lens came on a wide angle I bought. It serves a double purpose now.</p><p><br /></p><p> Here's one more. A MS66FB Mercury dime in a PCGS holder. Having only one light source probably isn't the best as some coins like this and the buffalo nickel have somewhat concave fields from the metal getting hammered and it leaves shadows that you can't get rid of.</p><p><br /></p><p> <img src="http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/coinalbum2/rev.jpg" class="bbCodeImage wysiwygImage" alt="" unselectable="on" />[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Vess1, post: 698544, member: 13650"]Here's the same set up as I listed above but shooting a loose coin. [IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/Coin%20Album1/IMG_0366.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/Coin%20Album1/IMG_0365.jpg[/IMG] One easy thing you can do that will help is always have one lighting source. You don't want day light and artificial light. Only one or the other. Then you don't want two different artificial lights. The camera can't adjust and it will screw up the color. Once you're under one light source, if your camera has it, always be sure to fill the view finder with something pure white under that light (in manual mode) get in custom white balance and hit ok or set. That tells the camera what pure white looks like under the particular lighting you're using. AWB works ok, but setting it manually is much better. That's one easy battle to get out of the way before you start. A cheap macro lens can really help with close ups too. As high tech as that camera looks, I would not be able to take good close ups without the macro lens attachment. My marco lens came on a wide angle I bought. It serves a double purpose now. Here's one more. A MS66FB Mercury dime in a PCGS holder. Having only one light source probably isn't the best as some coins like this and the buffalo nickel have somewhat concave fields from the metal getting hammered and it leaves shadows that you can't get rid of. [IMG]http://i48.photobucket.com/albums/f203/vessxpress1/coinalbum2/rev.jpg[/IMG][/QUOTE]
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