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<p>[QUOTE="Paddy54, post: 2658204, member: 19250"]Today I am posting two 1913 type 1 Buffalo Nickels . At present both coins are raw, with one at a TPG waiting to be graded. The purpose of this thread is to get an over view of your grading skills when grading a buffalo nickel. Both specimens are toned, that said you can judge on eye appeal, but not on you prefer a blast white coin over a toned one.</p><p>{Your grading each coin should be an understanding of the coin itself.} Not just ah it looks like a MS 63 or 65. You must add your reason as to why you think the coin is the grade you believe it to be. The 1913 Buffalo was minted in two types a type 1 and a type 2. The two coins you'll be grading are both " type 1 coins." the mintage was 30,992,000 on the type 1 ,and with a matte proof mintage of 1520 coins .</p><p><br /></p><p>Next one must take into consideration that grading a buffalo nickel can be quite the challenge. Often the Buffalo nickel were weakly struck,and can lack details. Even on mint state coins they can show signs of unevenly strikes or weak spots.</p><p>The fields are not the usual flat surfaces ,but textured that can also be a challenge as the texture may also throw off your vision,and trick your eye. I was always taught that these several items</p><p>The feathers, Hair and braids, Lettering and date, jaw ,and cheek, on the obverse</p><p>The reverse, the Horn, cape, split tail, lettering on the reverse,</p><p>are what to look for on a Buffalo nickel. Again remember that weakness may apply to one or more of these areas. But you as the grader must consider this fact, and make a decision based on what you see. That are the facts you know as a grader about the series.</p><p><br /></p><p>Let's see what we can learn together about this series. That way if you as a collector do happen to run across a specimen you would like to purchase you can use this drill to make the right choice.[ATTACH=full]589236[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]589237[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Here is a still shot of coin A as with it changing the lighting you may not be able to adjust your vision to make a correct call.[ATTACH=full]589243[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]589242[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>Coin B tone is in hand is lighter in color in hand. The photo has been enhanced as to color. However the colors shown are true just a bit lighter then what the image shows.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Paddy54, post: 2658204, member: 19250"]Today I am posting two 1913 type 1 Buffalo Nickels . At present both coins are raw, with one at a TPG waiting to be graded. The purpose of this thread is to get an over view of your grading skills when grading a buffalo nickel. Both specimens are toned, that said you can judge on eye appeal, but not on you prefer a blast white coin over a toned one. {Your grading each coin should be an understanding of the coin itself.} Not just ah it looks like a MS 63 or 65. You must add your reason as to why you think the coin is the grade you believe it to be. The 1913 Buffalo was minted in two types a type 1 and a type 2. The two coins you'll be grading are both " type 1 coins." the mintage was 30,992,000 on the type 1 ,and with a matte proof mintage of 1520 coins . Next one must take into consideration that grading a buffalo nickel can be quite the challenge. Often the Buffalo nickel were weakly struck,and can lack details. Even on mint state coins they can show signs of unevenly strikes or weak spots. The fields are not the usual flat surfaces ,but textured that can also be a challenge as the texture may also throw off your vision,and trick your eye. I was always taught that these several items The feathers, Hair and braids, Lettering and date, jaw ,and cheek, on the obverse The reverse, the Horn, cape, split tail, lettering on the reverse, are what to look for on a Buffalo nickel. Again remember that weakness may apply to one or more of these areas. But you as the grader must consider this fact, and make a decision based on what you see. That are the facts you know as a grader about the series. Let's see what we can learn together about this series. That way if you as a collector do happen to run across a specimen you would like to purchase you can use this drill to make the right choice.[ATTACH=full]589236[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]589237[/ATTACH] Here is a still shot of coin A as with it changing the lighting you may not be able to adjust your vision to make a correct call.[ATTACH=full]589243[/ATTACH] [ATTACH=full]589242[/ATTACH] Coin B tone is in hand is lighter in color in hand. The photo has been enhanced as to color. However the colors shown are true just a bit lighter then what the image shows.[/QUOTE]
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