When attempting to grade a coin, if one side is significantly higher grade than the other, is the overall grade averaged between the two sides, or is the grade of the lower side the final grade? Example - this Barber Dime. When I compare to various photo grading examples, my best guess is that the obverse is grade G6, while the reverse is grade F12. Would the overall coin only reach a G6 grade, or would it be able to bump up to a VG8 thanks to the reverse?
The reverse can only LOWER the overall grade. Let's say the coin sat in a drawer for 50 years, sliding on the reverse everytime it was opened or closed. The reverse is VG8 the obverse MS64. It's still a VG8 or maybe VG10 coin.
To add onto what the others have said, there used to be a "net" grade, where they would take into consideration the obverse and reverse and do as you stated, average them. I believe ANACS was one of the companies that did this, although now it is no longer common convention.
In that case, where would y'all grade this coin? It's a better date, so even a difference of 1 grade makes a large difference in value. I would really hope for a VG8, but suspect G6 is the best it would go since it's not averaged. Even the obverse might be VG8, except the head - everything around it is better, IMO, but that head has like no detail, and zero letters of LIBERTY visible :/
ANACS did split grading. And normal grading w/obverse 60 to 70% of the grade. Net grading is an entirely different thing. IMO, the OP's coin is VG/F. If there are some letters of "Liberty" visible it may make VG-10. Otherwise 8.
Ahhh that's right. Just looked up slab examples because I swore I remember seeing net grades on old white holders. I knew I wasn't going crazy, net grading for details coins. Thanks. @Steamandlight, I'd be comfortable calling it VG08. I think the obverse rim carry the coin over the G06 hump. Barbers aren't my series, so I don't recall how strict the rules are for the headband and letters of LIBERTY being present on the obverse for increasing grade increments, but I don't believe that would hold this coin back.
Thank you, your responses make me feel more confident. The VG8 grade guide says 3 letters should be visible, but the rim is very noticably worse in their examples, too. This coin in G4 books value hits $69, while VG8 book value is $120 (numismedia). That's a heck of a difference. I want to make sure when I go to sell or trade it, my value/price is appropriate.
Mark it VG-8, Price it $110 and give a little discount from that. Good luck selling it as very few people are filling holes in their folders anymore.
I'd call that VG except for the lack of any letters in LIBERTY. I suppose this is one of those ambiguous situations, as you've discovered. The conservative way to go is to call it G6, though it has a far better reverse than you'd expect for that grade. This is the way I'd go. It's a as nice a G6 as you're likely to see - right on the very cusp of VG8. But if I were selling it, I would still call it G6 to seem fair and conservative, and I'd price it somewhere in the midpoint between G and VG money.
the coins grade must be determined by both front and back standards it has been my experience that they usually go on the lower side Of the grade even if one side is far superior to the other. just my two cents
G6 but if I were selling it, I would call it G+/F, where the first letter gives the grade of the obverse, the second letter the reverse grade. No way it'll ever make VG with no hint of letters of Liberty.
Who knows (or cares) what the TPGs would do with this coin? It has no letters of LIBERTY, so by ANA standards it can't grade higher than Good-something. As far as TPGs are concerned, I have seen Indian cents slabbed as XF that don't show a full LIBERTY, so I have little faith in them. I do not buy a coin based on the slab grade but rather based on my own opinion of the grade.
