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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;phankins11, post: 2087070, member: 70703&quot;]All of these coins, with the exception of the Lincoln Cent look to be moderately (the toned nickels) to heavily circulated (the 196x nickel). But the pictures could be playing tricks on the toned Jefferson Nickels.</p><p><br /></p><p>Toning on these modern coins can happen even after circulation, if they sit in the right place for the right amount of time with the right circumstances. Those two coins look to be high XF to low AU grades.</p><p><br /></p><p>That 1993 D Lincoln seems to be in the high AU to low MS grade range and looks like it has the typical copper plating anomalies that are so prevalent with the 90s zincolns. the 93 D is only worth maybe 5-8 bucks in MS-65 and yours doesn&#039;t seem to be in that grade range.</p><p><br /></p><p>That Jefferson nickel with a 196x (maybe 1962?) date on it...cant see the last number because of the light reflection...looks like a heavily circulated nickel, not really worth much unless its a variety that I don&#039;t know about, and there are lots of varieties I don&#039;t know about. It looks to be in F to VF condition. Again, unless its a highly prized variety, its hardly worth grading IMO. </p><p><br /></p><p>The only two reasons I would personally slab a coin (rather than just buying slabbed) would be either for resale to make a profit or if I just wanted it slabbed for my own collection, and then only if its a higher grade or a key date find.</p><p><br /></p><p>If the going price of the coin slabbed and graded were to out weigh the the cost of submission plus cost of the coin and you plan to sell it once its graded and slabbed, go for it. You have to be very sure of your grading skills though and that can be a tough (translate expensive) lesson to learn. I&#039;m currently in the middle of my first lesson and the jury is still out on how well I speculated. If I was off it will cost me $40 and change. The price of an education is how I look at it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Secondly, if the coin is something you like, and you don&#039;t care about the cost of submission, then go for it. I personally don&#039;t see the reason for grading and encapsulating coins unless you want verification of the grade, and even then, its probably more cost effective to buy that coin already graded. If its an older coin (18th, 19th, and even the turn of the 20th century), and a key date, then grading can be a good idea. Especially for validation that the coin has not been tampered with.</p><p><br /></p><p>As far as online resources for grading the best place to start is PCGS&#039;s photograde website. <a href="http://www.pcgs.com/photograde/" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://www.pcgs.com/photograde/" rel="nofollow">http://www.pcgs.com/photograde/</a>. Another great resource is the PCGS Gide to Coin Grading and Counterfeit Detection. ANA also has a book similar.</p><p><br /></p><p>Numismedia&#039;s FMV is an online resource for pricing. The best places though to find the value of the coins are completed &amp; sold auctions from Ebay, Heritage (ha.com), and Great Collections (greatcollections.com). Its like looking at comps for houses, but for coins. PCGS also has a price guide as well on their website and for your smart phones.</p><p><br /></p><p>Ok well that reply got away from me...good luck.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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