Nice close up photos, but ask yourself: Do you see any separation of the letters, or do they look 'shelf-like'? See the 2nd thru about the 6th photo - all flat doubling, no separation.
Die deterioration doubling, not a doubled die. They really used those dies well... Edit: duplicate post in the same topic, sorry.
Would someone please post side by side pictures of "separation of letters" and "shelfing". I would have also thought that some of these pictures showed doubling.
With true Doubled Die (or DDO [DD Obverse], DDR [DD Reverse]) Think of the letters being stamped Twice on the Die. And thus the Die itself has two of the letters with some portion of overlapping. From some of the reading I was doing the outer letters, and dates are stamped separately from the rest of the side. Thus the reason only certain things, and not necessarily all of the face is doubled. Though I don't know about those in complete detail. Versus the dies' Letter/Number detailed edges being worn down. notice the thickness of the regular L. As the die is worn down, the edges loose their detail and creates a shelf like pattern. A thinner L, and thickness may increase though creates a shelf pattern with the Machine Doubling example. This 1969 S DD Cent shows obvious Doubled Die. See the separation of the letters Think of the Letters and Numbers as a inverse die being stamped offset of where it should be. The "Y" in liberty isn't as offset as the "L" in Liberty thus showing the rotation of the master die to the working die. Thus the reason the 1 9 6 and 9 show less doubling with the 1, and more as you get to the last 9. It's rotated slightly with the outer letters showing more rotation due to being further from the center. Versus Shelf Like "doubling" or mechanical doubling or die deterioration doubling. more information => https://www.ngccoin.com/news/article/5688/Double-Dies-vs-Machine-Doubling/ hope that's close to correct info for Fred. You can create your own "test dies" by using Silly Putty. use a small strip of it on the letters, peel off and put back on slightly off center and create a doubled image of the letters. Also, in 1996 they started using the "single squeeze" die making which creates a different type of double die errors which I haven't really figured out yet.
But that doesn't mean it's from the die. We're looking for die-doubling, because that's a major screw-up. Dies are made carefully from hubs, which are also made carefully. Coins are made carelessly from dies. If you go on YouTube and look up how coins are minted, you'll see it for yourself. Coins are minted rapidly, like machine-gun fire. Obviously, under high magnification, it would almost be a miracle if one could find a coin that came out perfect. Then consider the condition of the dies, after prolonged use. Do you see the deep crevases in your 1987-D? Those are from dies that are deteriorated, starting to fall apart. They're from dies that were hot and stressed from all the pounding into the planchets to make the coins. Dies don't last forever, either, just as coins don't. That's why, in the minting process, they're greased. Grease is slippery, the coins slip more when they're struck, and show it after they're struck. The grease also cakes into the recessed surfaces on the dies, clogs those surfaces, and that shows up on the coins. In a nutshell, if you're going to look for doubled dies, start by studying-up on them. This is what a doubled-die looks like. Note how the letters hold their shape, and aren't smashed, mangled or distorted. When it's from the dies, it will look like this, with the impressions just slightly offset. They'll be very close to the same height off the coin, too. Here you go...
Wexler's Doubled Die site has some really good information. Read the sections on Doubled Dies and Worthless doubling
This helps a lot and I will save this. Question though - Is the 1969 date DD or not? I have a coin where the doubling look exactly like this, but it was deemed to be MD by the CT experts.