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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;messydesk, post: 2606188, member: 1765&quot;]I disagree.&nbsp; For the dime, the light is too low, not too weak.&nbsp; You are getting a bright front of Liberty&#039;s face and a dark cheek because of this.&nbsp; If you simply raise the lights, which may require you raising the camera and cropping more, you&#039;ll get a better picture.&nbsp; </p><p><br /></p><p>Then you can address the next problem you&#039;ll have.&nbsp; For lighting the reverse of a Mercury dime, you don&#039;t want the lights at the 9 and 3 position (or even 10 and 2) with respect to the coin.&nbsp; The reason is the fasces.&nbsp; The two lights hitting it from opposite directions will fill in the shadows that give the vertical lines depth.&nbsp; I typically light these at 9 and 1 on the reverse -- or maybe even 7 and 11 -- whichever gives the nicest texture to the axe blade.</p><p><br /></p><p>Another reason I wouldn&#039;t use 9 and 3 for uncirculated coins is that lights at 180° from each other will reinforce the same luster band on the coin.&nbsp; If the lights are 90° from each other (10:30 and 1:30), the luster bands will be as well.&nbsp; This is easiest to see on the reverse of a Morgan dollar, where on semi-prooflike coins, you&#039;ll see a nice, white X across the reverse if you do this.</p><p><br /></p><p>For the amount of light, I have two 100W-equivalent daylight LED bulbs.&nbsp; Not quite as much light as you have with 4 60W bulbs, but since they&#039;re LEDs, they&#039;re much cooler to work with (unless you touch the porcelain base).[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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