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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;Conder101, post: 265833, member: 66&quot;]Yes you can see the different layers on a regular dollar if you look for it, but the transition between the layer tends to be &quot;rough&quot; and uneven because of the shearing action of the punch cutting out the blanks.&nbsp; The difference in the colors is also usually hard to see.&nbsp; (Because some of the metal from the outer layers is &quot;smeared&quot; over the inner core.)</p><p><br /></p><p>On a coin that has had the edge ground off typically the color difference is sharp and clear, and the transition between the inner and outer layers is sharply defined and STRAIGHT.</p><p><br /></p><p>Also the shearing action of the planchet punches, and the scraping of the coin against the collar as it is ejected after striking, leave vertical scrape marks on the edge of the coin.&nbsp; These scrape mark are CLEARLY visible on genuine plain edge coins (and on lettered edge coins as well.).&nbsp; So far every fake plain edge I have seen has had the lettering removed by grinding that goes around the circumference of the coin.&nbsp; These show none of the vertical scrapings and instead show thousands a fine scratches that go around the circumference giving the edge a matte-like finish.</p><p><br /></p><p>One final thing to look for on genuine coins is a beveling on the edge.&nbsp; A planchet has a rounded edge.&nbsp; When it is struck it expands and presses against the collar creating a flat spot on the edge of the coin.&nbsp; Examining the edge of the coin shows a flat rim and a flat spot on the edge and &quot;bevels&quot; that go between them.&nbsp; A fake plain edge coin almost always shows a rounded edge with no flat spot.&nbsp; In a few cases they use a lathe and in that case the edge is typically cut completely flat (and it is definitely underweight.&nbsp; The lathe method with a cutting tool removes more material than a lathe and Emery cloth)[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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