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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;bhp3rd, post: 825427, member: 16510&quot;]I know you did and <b>your photos are fabulous, they &quot;tell the tale&quot;!</b></p><p>Keep that coin, and then when you get a doubled die rev. quarter compare the two.&nbsp; Doubled dies, for the most part will never have that much spread.&nbsp; Plus <b>the spread, in this case will not appear &quot;all flattened out&quot;!&nbsp; True doubled dies look fat, thick, puffed up, rounded, overlapping in a closer type manner meaning that the doubled letters, numbers or whatever are hugging the primary image but slightly adjar.&nbsp; Remember the portion that is doubled from the primary will be another image but never quite the same.&nbsp; It will be under, over, on top of, next to but not a copy of the primary.&nbsp; It is hubbed twice (to keep it simple for this) so another image was formed adjacent to and not a copy of.&nbsp; If a design element is doubled in this way as it was slightly adjar from the original hubbing the doubling will be only on one side or another and not perfect or overlapping to both sides as your coin was.&nbsp; If I remember the &quot;L&quot;s or the &quot;D&quot; or &quot;E&quot;s&#039; of letters in dollar were alinged up with the side of the letter looking the same all the way up on the west side, even almost doubling.&nbsp; Doubled dies do not look like this except in very rare cases and only then with thick extra images not flat - your were flat and even.&nbsp; This is a dead giveaway to mechanical doubling as the primary image is scooted, pushed or pulled and as not been formed by hubbing.</b></p><p>Remember to that we have looked at hundreds of thousands of coins.</p><p>&nbsp;</p><p>The above has been simplified for this only explanation and no, I can&#039;t spell well nor do a care, much.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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