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<p>[QUOTE=&quot;hotwheelsearl, post: 7908821, member: 75143&quot;]As has been stated previously, patina, artificial or natural takes study of the compound and prior trial and error to affect.</p><p><br /></p><p>Some coins have a very hard, glossy, and fragile patina which is often some sort of cyanoacrylate (super glue); I&#039;ve seen what I believe to be super glued sand patinas. In this case, acetone works well.</p><p><br /></p><p>Sometimes you have a Renaissance wax patina; these can be removed by acetone or alcohol, usually.</p><p><br /></p><p>Sometimes you have a rather dense, paraffin wax-like situation in which case boiling might actually work, though I&#039;ve never tried it.</p><p><br /></p><p>Chemically-applied patinas, such as Jax Patina Restorer is hard to remove and I&#039;ve yet to find a good way to do so. This is a liquid that will seep into every pore and sort of bind with the metal; removal of this can often damage the rest of the patina.</p><p><br /></p><p>Electrolysis is a good way of stripping a coin to bare metal - which allows one to repatinate how they please.</p><p><br /></p><p>Finally, a rust remover such as Naval Jelly will absolutely get absolutely everything off the surface of a coin. Danger is that it goes too far and starts to dissolve the metal itself. I&#039;ve tried this before and ended up with some chemical burns and coins that pretty much lost all meaning. Not recommended, but it <i>will</i> &quot;work&quot;[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>

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