First time Coin Buyer

What's a copy stand for pictures? What kind of lens on a DSLR, macro??

 

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https://www.google.com/#q=copy+stand

You can make one yourself. The point is to have the camera attached to something steady, the coin placed on something steady, and lighting set up. Macro lens is best.

 

It would take longer go explain, in detail, what a copy stand is and does than it would take to simply google it. In this case photos really are worth a thousand words.

As for what lens, yes, may use macros, but they aren't the only option, nor is a DSLR even necessary to produce quality coin images. Some here use a DSLR/bellows setup, while others use DSLR/macro, and others a simple point and shoot (among others), but no matter what one chooses to use, both understanding and knowing how to get the most from one's camera (which is a tool) is just as if not more important than the equipment used. If one is on a budget, slapping diopters on a kit lens can often yield suitable results, as can other options such as lens reversal. There are many past threads here on the subject, so if of interest you may enjoy checking them out.

 

So it's a stand thingy with lights that this thing will just screw onto?



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It takes a few years of study to be able to grade coins reasonably well. It also takes study and practice to be able to photograph coins reasonably well, and a somewhat significant purchase of photography equipment.

My advice to you, if this is just a one time thing and you're looking to sell these coins for as much as possible, it's just not worth the time and expense to do it yourself to maximize your profit. The same coin can be worth $1000 or $10 depending on minor differences in variety and condition that a novice is just not going to be able to evaluate. Also a novice may easily mishandle a coin and significantly decrease the value.

Take the coins to a reputable dealer and pay for an appraisal. Ask them to indicate which coins (if any) they think would be worth submitting for grading. If they are an authorized PCGS or NGC dealer, they can submit the coins for you for a fee.

The tough part with submissions is that grading is not an exact science. A coin may, for example, have a 10% chance of being graded MS63, a 70% chance of being graded MS64, and a 20% chance of being graded MS65. For that coin, it may be well worth the fees if you get MS65, you may break even if you get MS64, and lose out and have to resubmit it if you get an MS63. So you try your best to make sure that you can recoup fees on the whole. There's no way to really understand how this will play out without years of experience grading and learning how the TPGs grade. Again, explain to the dealer what you want to do, and you're just going to have to trust their advice.

 

Here's what my personal rig looks like:



Canon dSLR mounted on a custom-modified microscope stand, employing various cheap film duplicating lenses and shooting from keyboard/mouse via a software tether to the computer. My current in-use rig cost $84 for the camera and my best lens was $60, for the record. Start a thread somewhere, or PM me, and I'll bury you in information.

 

thanks for all the help! You all are right. I've tried taking several pics but they are terrible lol. I'll take some of the groups and list them with the mint marks just for general viewing.

 

1900P
1892S

 

All are P except the 1879S. These are $10 the previous were $20.

 

$5 Liberty's
1902S
1886S
Rest are P

 

You need to post the reverses of the coins along with the obverses. Both sides of the coins have to be looked at together.

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The 1881 in the lower right looks pretty lustrous. The others look to be all worth just bullion value.

 

All are common date, but the 1881, 1886-S, and 1902-S definitely look to be in better condition (with some mint luster) than the 1880 and 1893.

 

Both are common date, but the 1900 looks to be practically new, though there are some detracting marks. The 1892S is a little more dinged up.

 

Assuming they are real, and i can't confirm, those are all common date, mostly impaired coins from what i can see. Again, better pictures would be needed, obverse and reverse.

But best guess is they are problem coins and worth melt value, 320 for the $5s, 640 for the $10s, and 1280 for the $20s. Assuming the rest of the coins are common and in the same condition, that's where i would place the value.

My local shop buys these for around spot, maybe a little more. EBay will get you right around spot, but you'll be out 10% to 15% in fees.

So gold value there is around $15,680. Assuming Morgan's are similar quality, common and worn/ impaired, they are worth 14.4 per coin so another $3000 in melt silver. My guess, but just based on the type of collection you have posted, this looks like coins bought for metal content, not numismatic content. If that's right, slabbing won't improve the value, and you should be able to get pretty close to $18,000 to $19,000 for all of it, if I'm right.

How much did you pay?

 

That tells us pretty much all we need to know. WOW.

 

Not to mention most buyers won't touch raw gold from first time coin sellers on there. Probably need to send them at least to ANACS to have eBay be a viable outlet

 

Good piont. I'd shop it around, most place will give you a quote on junk gold/ silver over the phone.

 

Welcome to CT...IMHO, if you and your buddy purchased this "collection" as a quick flip type investment, you made a mistake. Unless one of the Morgans was a 1893-S.

 

If you value your friendship more than the coins, sell the collection asap! There is too much subjectivity in evaluating raw coins, when to sell, and how much to sell them for. Would you also partner with a friend in evaluating, buying and selling a portfolio of stocks?