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<p>[QUOTE="Jaelus, post: 3699547, member: 46237"]Messydesk's observations are excellent.</p><p><br /></p><p>Realize that light is not just about illuminating the coin, it is also about <i>composing</i> the shot. Each light will illuminate certain areas of the coin and cast shadows on other areas of the coin. It will highlight or conceal different areas of the coin as you like. You can start your lights at 10 and 2, but it's usually going to give you a shot that's just okay.</p><p><br /></p><p>What I do to compose a shot is make sure the room is completely dark. Then I turn on one of the lights and adjust the angle and height to my liking. Perhaps there is an area of toning you want to highlight, or a way you'd like to frame a bust or other device. You get that from your first light. Then turn it off. Turn on your second light by itself, and adjust again to compose how you want the light from your second source to illuminate the face of the coin. Then turn both lights on and see if you like the shot. Adjust as necessary at this point - but now you are informed as to how each light is independently lighting the coin.</p><p><br /></p><p>For example, take a look at this shot I made of a Hungarian 2 korona. The lights are at asymmetrical angles and positions to create the composition I desired. My goals for this shot were to get the lighting in the face so that the shadows fell around the eyes and under the brow to create more contrast, and to minimize the appearance of the hit in the field in front of the face, to make it look more like it does in hand (minimal in appearance).</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]991361[/ATTACH]</p><p><br /></p><p>In this shot of a Hungarian 4 krajczar, I composed the lighting to highlight the toning of the copper differently, to create a light vs dark effect between the angels.</p><p><br /></p><p>[ATTACH=full]991363[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Jaelus, post: 3699547, member: 46237"]Messydesk's observations are excellent. Realize that light is not just about illuminating the coin, it is also about [I]composing[/I] the shot. Each light will illuminate certain areas of the coin and cast shadows on other areas of the coin. It will highlight or conceal different areas of the coin as you like. You can start your lights at 10 and 2, but it's usually going to give you a shot that's just okay. What I do to compose a shot is make sure the room is completely dark. Then I turn on one of the lights and adjust the angle and height to my liking. Perhaps there is an area of toning you want to highlight, or a way you'd like to frame a bust or other device. You get that from your first light. Then turn it off. Turn on your second light by itself, and adjust again to compose how you want the light from your second source to illuminate the face of the coin. Then turn both lights on and see if you like the shot. Adjust as necessary at this point - but now you are informed as to how each light is independently lighting the coin. For example, take a look at this shot I made of a Hungarian 2 korona. The lights are at asymmetrical angles and positions to create the composition I desired. My goals for this shot were to get the lighting in the face so that the shadows fell around the eyes and under the brow to create more contrast, and to minimize the appearance of the hit in the field in front of the face, to make it look more like it does in hand (minimal in appearance). [ATTACH=full]991361[/ATTACH] In this shot of a Hungarian 4 krajczar, I composed the lighting to highlight the toning of the copper differently, to create a light vs dark effect between the angels. [ATTACH=full]991363[/ATTACH][/QUOTE]
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First coin macro shots. Advice from the experts???
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