Figuring Out Market Value - Case Study - 1911-S Cent

Discussion in 'Coin Chat' started by Sholom, Dec 22, 2009.

  1. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    On second thought don't bother. I should have known that there will not be any due to the low value. There is one however - a 1911-S in F 12 slabbed by PCGS that was sold in Sept. 2008, near the peak of the market. The realized price was $37. I expect that has dropped a good bit by today given market conditions.

    That tells you that even Numismedia is probably too high in their estimates.
     
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  3. BadThad

    BadThad Calibrated for Lincolns

    Every dealer within 200 miles of Cincinnati use Grey Sheet. All the major shows I've attended with hundreds of dealers from coast to coast also used/respected Grey Sheet. While it's not the bible, it's a very good price guide and any dealer worth his salt will use it in negotiations most of the time. Obviously, there are coin by coin exceptions. I've seen dealers hold firm to higher prices on nicer coins and I can repect that.

    If you're looking at a specific coin, Doug has it dead-on correct. You have to do your DD using the auction sites. These are the prices people are willing to pay, which is the TRUE value of any coin.
     
  4. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    Hey everyone . . . thanks for being patient with me . . .

    OK, well, this is new information for me. I assumed Grey Sheet was useful for dealers, but not small-time collectors like me. (And, guys, I'm way into it with my heart, but I don't have a budget, so I consider myself small time).

    and

    Yes -- that makes sense, although probably none (or close to none) of the coins I am in the market for are on auctions (except eBay).

    To give you a sense of the magnitude . . . except for coin albums, the cost of the monthly grey sheet ($60 ?) exceeds anything I've ever spent on a coin . . . .

    Again, thank you all for your patience!
     
  5. vipergts2

    vipergts2 Jester in hobby of kings

    I don't buy enough to justify a grey sheet either Sholom, so I use ebay completed auctions and heritage to get a decent ball park figure on what I want to spend.
     
  6. BadThad

    BadThad Calibrated for Lincolns

  7. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    I sure hope this won't be too expensive a lesson for me.

    I just spent $3.99, and I purchased:

    Coin Dealer Newsletter - Greysheet 12/18/2009

    I don't see Lincoln cents listed individually there. It's mostly dollar coins, and high end (AU and up) Mercury Dimes and Walking Liberty Halves.

    I'm low end, looking to fill holes on a budget.

    What did I do wrong?
     
  8. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Sholom - you purchased the regular weekly issue. What Thad was suggesting you buy is the Monthly Supplement, found here - http://www.greysheet.com/cdn/month.asp - the current issues are $4.00 each.

    Now if you want to save a little more, you can purchase back issues of the Monthly Supplement for $2.50 each. For your use, that is probably what I would do. It will get you close enough to have an idea of current values. You can find the list of back issues here - http://www.greysheet.com/web_order/MonthlyBackIssues.asp - just be sure you only check the ones you really want.

    Here is a page which will tell you exactly what coins and the grades they are in that is included in the Monthly Supplement - http://www.greysheet.com/cdn/MonthlyCovered.asp
     
  9. BadThad

    BadThad Calibrated for Lincolns

    Yes, the values don't really change all that much from month to month so it's usually fine buying last month's edition. It's good enough for the causual buyer to use at coin shows.

    On a side note....I ALWAYS have one with me at coin shows. Dealers usually abide by it and they even sometimes ask to see MY copy. LOL My favorite Lincoln dealer uses it as his main pricing guide. I buy 95% of my Lincolns from him because he typically sells to me below bid since I'm a good customer. When I pull anything out of his inventory and ask price, he pulls out CDN. :D
     
  10. umn25

    umn25 ANA #3154232

    What's the greysheet for this coin? I might have missed it... but I do know that executive coin uses the greysheet for their inventory.
     
  11. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    Ahhh . . . thank you, that's the ticket! Got it.

    Thanks, y'all, for leading me by the hand here!
     
  12. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    Well now, that's interesting. Let me add greysheet to this little table here (note: I am putting in the average of bid and ask -- in each instance here bid is $2 less then what's in the table, and ask is $2 more).

    Numismedia: 20/29/37
    mtvcoins.com - /58/ -
    coastcoin.com 55/-/-
    valleycoin.com - /66/69
    executivecoin.com -/48/-
    PCGS 44/-/58
    Red Book 45/50/55
    Littleton 99/105/110
    Greysheet-bid 42/44/46
    Greysheet-ask 46/48/50

    And so, indeed, executive coin is selling a VG-8 (or what they claim is VG-8) for the same price as Greysheet ask.

    So -- here are my next questions:

    Will dealers purchase coins at around greysheet bid? (With all the usual caveats: accurate grading, no bad spots, etc.)

    And, if the answer's yes, and if I find, say, a 1911-S on eBay -- that turns out to be accurately rated, say, VG-8, for $20-something, will I make money by flipping it to a dealer? (Yes, I'm presuming all my time and research doesn't cost anything -- this is a hypothetical).

    Note: I'm not trying to find a way to make money here, mostly I'm trying to get the lay of the land here.
     
  13. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    No. A general rule of thumb is they will offer 10-20% less than Grey Sheet bid.

    But keep in mind, on more common stuff that is low in value, they will often only offer 50% of Grey Sheet bid because they already have 20 examples of what you are selling.
     
  14. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    In other words, they have a lot of supply. And excess supply means lower prices. OK -- that makes sense.

    But then why isn't that reflected already in the Greysheet prices?!? I.e., how then is Greysheet relevant when they report more common stuff low in value? What's the point of listing prices that are valid for non-common stuff, but not valid for common stuff? (or is it: this is what one dealer will pay another when one needs it and the other has it?)

    (OK, and I have to ask: is the coin in question, in this case a 1911-S, considered "low in value")
     
  15. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Sholom - look, the Grey Sheet is accurate to a point. But you are asking entirely different questions each time and wondering how one thing can be true because of the answer to the previous question.

    Here's the deal. The Grey Sheet is inteneded as a price guide for dealers only, it only list wholesale prices. There are some dealers who sell to collectors (retail prices) based on what the Grey Sheet says, but many others will not. As a general rule you can expect to pay 10-20% more than Ask if buying from a dealer. And you can expect to get paid 10-20% less than Bid if selling to a dealer.

    As for what defines a coin of lower value. That depends on who you ask and what the coin is. To you a coin that costs $2 may a coin of lower value. To me a coin that cost less than $500 is a coin of lower value. And to some dealers and collectors any coin that cost less than $10,000 is a coin of lower value. It is all variable depending on how much money you have and what the average cost is for the coins in your collection.

    What I was saying about a dealer that has 20 of something already in stock is also true. The Grey Sheet that coin is worth $50, but if he already has 20 of them, he doesn't care what the Grey Sheet says. He will only offer $25 because he doesn't want any more of them. He can't sell the ones he has. And if you asked him, he'd probably sell all of them to you for $35-$40 each. Dealer's only make money by moving their inventory. If the coins sit in the shop for 6 months, his money is tied up and he is losing money because that money he has tied up those 20 $50 coins ($1000) could be used to buy other coins that he could sell, right now, and make a profit on them. So to him, they aren't worth $50 each anymore. And certainly doesn't want any more of them. So he only offers $25 for your coin because he knows you will then say no to his offer. He wants you to say no. But he doesn't want to just tell you no thanks I don't want it, because that may make you mad and might cost him a future customer. So he makes a low offer to achieve the same result and hopefully, keep you coming back.
     
  16. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    Well, yeah, that's the nature of inquiry, no?

    And, I do appreciate all the info . . . as I wrote earlier in the thread: "Hey everyone . . . thanks for being patient with me . . ." And I mostly meant you!

    Speaking of which, you answered this one so well and so completely, I'm out of questions right now. (Or, perhaps I'm just losing my edge, or perhaps I didn't have enough coffee this morn . . . ;-)

    But, seriously, thanks. I've learned a tremendous amount from this thread, and mostly from your patient and detailed responses.
     
  17. GDJMSP

    GDJMSP Numismatist Moderator

    Sholom I don't mind you asking questions at all. It's just that it seemed you were misunderstanding the answers. Hopefully that is no longer the case ;)
     
  18. Sholom

    Sholom retired...

    No, I wasn't misunderstanding the answers. (At least I don't think I was). It's just that each answer led me to view it in a different angle, which led to more questions . . . until I saw the whole picture.

    Again, thank you very very much.
     
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