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<p>[QUOTE="TIF, post: 3242822, member: 56859"]Wow, that's quite a list! Good effort <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" />.</p><p><br /></p><p>See also <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/ancient-coins-beginners%E2%80%99-faq-thread.324858/page-2#post-3222342" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/ancient-coins-beginners%E2%80%99-faq-thread.324858/page-2#post-3222342">https://www.cointalk.com/threads/ancient-coins-beginners’-faq-thread.324858/page-2#post-3222342</a> for links to resources teaching how to detect fakes, databases of fake coins, etc.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Warren Esty, aka CoinTalk's [USER=44316]@Valentinian[/USER]</p><p><br /></p><p>CoinTalk has an excellent search engine. It is a very good idea to first search for the seller by name here (only <b>after</b> you have checked the <a href="https://www.forumancientcoins.com/board/index.php?topic=18502.0" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.forumancientcoins.com/board/index.php?topic=18502.0" rel="nofollow">Forum Ancient Coins Notorious Fakes Seller List</a> and <a href="http://augustuscoins.com/ed/fakesellers.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://augustuscoins.com/ed/fakesellers.html" rel="nofollow">Warren Esty's Fake Seller list</a>, otherwise we'll end up with a bunch of unnecessary posts).</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Bear in mind that a 100% positive feedback score does not ensure that the dealer is knowledgable or reputable.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>It depends on the coin type. Die matches are common among Roman Provincial coins. Sometimes you can even find die matches for one side to multiple reverses.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I'm not sure I agree with this. Sometimes fakes are deliberately vague on certain details, and sellers push the coin as a lesser type, hoping someone who has just enough knowledge to be dangerous will think he has spotted a rarity that the seller missed.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Perhaps you've made more of a study of this than have I, but it seems that almost any patina, oxide, or encrustation can be mimicked by an adept forger. Verdigris seems particularly easy to recreate.</p><p><br /></p><p>Although, in the absence of other diagnostic indications, "artificial" toning does not mean the coin must be fake. For an interesting discussion about toning see <a href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/can-you-define-artificial-toning.326929/" class="internalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="https://www.cointalk.com/threads/can-you-define-artificial-toning.326929/">this thread</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I'm not sure if this translates to coins which in most cases were buried for centuries. Various metals leach out; porosity can reduce weight beyond simple wear. Some series of coins do tend to be more consistent in their weight, particularly silver coins of greater fineness (Athens tetradrachm, for instance). Coins made with debased metal seem to suffer greater variations in weights due to burial conditions, if not also due to their starting weight.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>But bear in mind that the obverse and reverse dies wore out at different rates. A fresh obverse die may be seen with a worn reverse die, for instance, so you have to discern between die wear and coin wear.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>But keep in mind that flans are often cast, so remnants of sprues are perfectly normal on some coins. Some flans also underwent further shaping and preparation which cause tool marks (lathe marks on the surfaces; file marks on the edges), so you need to know the norm for flan preparation for the type of coin in question.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>The ring test is generally not advisable because ancient silver coins are embrittled to various degrees and may be more fragile than you realize.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Worth saying again: At this point in time, no<i> third parties</i> offer guarantees of authenticity (meaning guaranteed authenticity of coins <b>they did not sell to you</b>). Having said that, all three of these entities are well respected and knowledgable. The best defense against buying a fake is always "know the coin or know the seller".[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="TIF, post: 3242822, member: 56859"]Wow, that's quite a list! Good effort :). See also [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/threads/ancient-coins-beginners%E2%80%99-faq-thread.324858/page-2#post-3222342']https://www.cointalk.com/threads/ancient-coins-beginners’-faq-thread.324858/page-2#post-3222342[/URL] for links to resources teaching how to detect fakes, databases of fake coins, etc. Warren Esty, aka CoinTalk's [USER=44316]@Valentinian[/USER] CoinTalk has an excellent search engine. It is a very good idea to first search for the seller by name here (only [B]after[/B] you have checked the [URL='https://www.forumancientcoins.com/board/index.php?topic=18502.0']Forum Ancient Coins Notorious Fakes Seller List[/URL] and [URL='http://augustuscoins.com/ed/fakesellers.html']Warren Esty's Fake Seller list[/URL], otherwise we'll end up with a bunch of unnecessary posts). Bear in mind that a 100% positive feedback score does not ensure that the dealer is knowledgable or reputable. It depends on the coin type. Die matches are common among Roman Provincial coins. Sometimes you can even find die matches for one side to multiple reverses. I'm not sure I agree with this. Sometimes fakes are deliberately vague on certain details, and sellers push the coin as a lesser type, hoping someone who has just enough knowledge to be dangerous will think he has spotted a rarity that the seller missed. Perhaps you've made more of a study of this than have I, but it seems that almost any patina, oxide, or encrustation can be mimicked by an adept forger. Verdigris seems particularly easy to recreate. Although, in the absence of other diagnostic indications, "artificial" toning does not mean the coin must be fake. For an interesting discussion about toning see [URL='https://www.cointalk.com/threads/can-you-define-artificial-toning.326929/']this thread[/URL]. I'm not sure if this translates to coins which in most cases were buried for centuries. Various metals leach out; porosity can reduce weight beyond simple wear. Some series of coins do tend to be more consistent in their weight, particularly silver coins of greater fineness (Athens tetradrachm, for instance). Coins made with debased metal seem to suffer greater variations in weights due to burial conditions, if not also due to their starting weight. But bear in mind that the obverse and reverse dies wore out at different rates. A fresh obverse die may be seen with a worn reverse die, for instance, so you have to discern between die wear and coin wear. But keep in mind that flans are often cast, so remnants of sprues are perfectly normal on some coins. Some flans also underwent further shaping and preparation which cause tool marks (lathe marks on the surfaces; file marks on the edges), so you need to know the norm for flan preparation for the type of coin in question. The ring test is generally not advisable because ancient silver coins are embrittled to various degrees and may be more fragile than you realize. Worth saying again: At this point in time, no[I] third parties[/I] offer guarantees of authenticity (meaning guaranteed authenticity of coins [B]they did not sell to you[/B]). Having said that, all three of these entities are well respected and knowledgable. The best defense against buying a fake is always "know the coin or know the seller".[/QUOTE]
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