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<p>[QUOTE="Drusus, post: 476200, member: 6370"]Well, thanks!! That picture of the guy minting above is pretty much how I did it save I had a lower die and I use an old tree stump to do my hammering. I drilled a hole in the stump, lined the hole with a steel pipe, place my lower die in the hole, then the planchet, then put the top die on and hammer as hard as I can. The physical act of minting the coin I have down...no problem...its the preparation of the die that is so difficult.</p><p> </p><p>I guess I was just disappointed as I did not get as refined of an image as I was wanting. I believe I still can but it will require more trial and error and tweaking the technique I am using.</p><p> </p><p>I used 6" x 3/4" steel rods as dies...I hammered newly cooled pewter which is rather soft...I plan to do some in silver if I can get the process down better.</p><p> </p><p>The way I am using right now to get the image on the die is a pretty long process (which is why its frustrating when it doesn't work and I have to start again). I coat the die with acid resist, trace my image onto the small 3/4" tip, remove the acid resist with a small stylus in the places where I want to burn, then give it a dip in an acid mixture. I then remove the remaining acid resist and clean the die, heat some pewter, make a planchet using a 3/4" reservoir in casting clay...while it is still hot I strike it.</p><p> </p><p>Now this is a very tedious process and since I started I have learned of something called Photoresist. It acts like acid resist but it is photo sensitive, much like the way they prepare a silk screen...it is used to etch in to glass, circuit boards, etc...I have seen people using it on zinc and copper as well as steel. It appears you can produce very refined lines (much like those on circuit boards) as well as gradients. Apparently I might be able to coat my die with this photoresist, transfer my image onto clear plastic sheet, affix it to the die, the expose it to light...a soak in a chemical will cause the area exposed to be removed (or the area not exposed depending on the type of resist) leaving my design ready to burn. I was told this will keep me from having to etch every die by hand and it will transfer my design EXACTLY as I have designed it...and not what I manage to get after etching the tiny details by hand. this will help big time with transferring text which is already hard to do but made even harder because it must be mirrored.</p><p> </p><p>I am going to try this method and with hope this might allow me to produce a finer image...I also still have to solidify a good acid mixture and dip time so the acid does not react to the metal too violently and burn to fast, wide and deep (like the example above). Too strong of acid causes the lines to spread and thicken too much and then you lose details as they spread into each other...too weak and then you have to leave it in REAL long and still I end up getting a weak image...</p><p> </p><p>I think I am getting there...I am hoping to mint a coin for my daughter (though I am looking to get a professionally done token for that now...I just want it perfect), and one for my family as well as some fantasy ideas I have had...I was also thinking that if I get this process down better I could mint a CT coin <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /></p><p> </p><p>I will try this other method and maybe I will even try to etch directly into the steel die with my diamond tipped stylus, see what type of results I get there...though I prefer not to have to try to do text and fine images by hand on the small tip of the die...its real hard and I am no great artist <img src="styles/default/xenforo/clear.png" class="mceSmilieSprite mceSmilie1" alt=":)" unselectable="on" unselectable="on" /> Props to the ancients as this is not easy.</p><p> </p><p>I will certainly report back if I make more progress</p><p>thanks again.</p><p> </p><p>Oh...I will post the reverse when I get home...I have two reverse, one burned too much, the other not enough.[/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="Drusus, post: 476200, member: 6370"]Well, thanks!! That picture of the guy minting above is pretty much how I did it save I had a lower die and I use an old tree stump to do my hammering. I drilled a hole in the stump, lined the hole with a steel pipe, place my lower die in the hole, then the planchet, then put the top die on and hammer as hard as I can. The physical act of minting the coin I have down...no problem...its the preparation of the die that is so difficult. I guess I was just disappointed as I did not get as refined of an image as I was wanting. I believe I still can but it will require more trial and error and tweaking the technique I am using. I used 6" x 3/4" steel rods as dies...I hammered newly cooled pewter which is rather soft...I plan to do some in silver if I can get the process down better. The way I am using right now to get the image on the die is a pretty long process (which is why its frustrating when it doesn't work and I have to start again). I coat the die with acid resist, trace my image onto the small 3/4" tip, remove the acid resist with a small stylus in the places where I want to burn, then give it a dip in an acid mixture. I then remove the remaining acid resist and clean the die, heat some pewter, make a planchet using a 3/4" reservoir in casting clay...while it is still hot I strike it. Now this is a very tedious process and since I started I have learned of something called Photoresist. It acts like acid resist but it is photo sensitive, much like the way they prepare a silk screen...it is used to etch in to glass, circuit boards, etc...I have seen people using it on zinc and copper as well as steel. It appears you can produce very refined lines (much like those on circuit boards) as well as gradients. Apparently I might be able to coat my die with this photoresist, transfer my image onto clear plastic sheet, affix it to the die, the expose it to light...a soak in a chemical will cause the area exposed to be removed (or the area not exposed depending on the type of resist) leaving my design ready to burn. I was told this will keep me from having to etch every die by hand and it will transfer my design EXACTLY as I have designed it...and not what I manage to get after etching the tiny details by hand. this will help big time with transferring text which is already hard to do but made even harder because it must be mirrored. I am going to try this method and with hope this might allow me to produce a finer image...I also still have to solidify a good acid mixture and dip time so the acid does not react to the metal too violently and burn to fast, wide and deep (like the example above). Too strong of acid causes the lines to spread and thicken too much and then you lose details as they spread into each other...too weak and then you have to leave it in REAL long and still I end up getting a weak image... I think I am getting there...I am hoping to mint a coin for my daughter (though I am looking to get a professionally done token for that now...I just want it perfect), and one for my family as well as some fantasy ideas I have had...I was also thinking that if I get this process down better I could mint a CT coin :) I will try this other method and maybe I will even try to etch directly into the steel die with my diamond tipped stylus, see what type of results I get there...though I prefer not to have to try to do text and fine images by hand on the small tip of the die...its real hard and I am no great artist :) Props to the ancients as this is not easy. I will certainly report back if I make more progress thanks again. Oh...I will post the reverse when I get home...I have two reverse, one burned too much, the other not enough.[/QUOTE]
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