As I see it the issues are about the same as they are with a copper coin - verdigris and toning. Toning can be slowed down with proper storage, and additional damage from verdigris can be stopped by removing moisture from the equation, or at least reducing moisture as much as possible. If you could figure out a way to do those 2 things you could keep it just as it is. But given that the thing is I dunno, what, roughly 15 inches by 12 inches, that's not so easy to do. If you could find a Tupperware container big enough for it to fit inside then you could simply add a silica gel pack and pretty much maintain it as it is. Now you could remove the verdigris, and the toning for that matter, but my question would be - why bother ? I mean you really have nothing to gain by doing so. Proper storage will slow the toning down so much that it won't really matter, and removing or reducing moisture will stop any further damage from verdigris - and since what is done is already done - well, like I said, why bother ?
Well. I guess it depends on what you want it to look like, & what you intend to do with it. If you intend to flip it, then you have to figure out what the market desires...so how do the collectors of these want to see them. If you want to keep it & say frame it (looks to be approx. 7" x 11") then how do you want it to look. Perhaps practice on cull cents to get the right effect. I never clean anything (I mean coins ) so I can't advise you on that, but I will say do not use any abrasive, like 0000 steel wool, or toothpaste (yes, the reason tp has a whitening effect is that it contains ultra fine abrasives). The verdicare sounds about right & since this is pre-strike, you shouldn't have to worry about the same things you would about actual coin surfaces. Perhaps look @ any which have already been slabbed for a clue, or ask a TPG? In any event, that's a nice piece!
You could try ( Bar Keepers Friend ) found in local grocery stores. Does not scratch. Also cleans rust stains on glass.
Doug, what about olive oil and verdicare? Don't wanna flip but would like it to look nicer. Going to make my own capital plastics holder for it.
Verdi-Care would be your best bet, olive oil literally takes forever to work. But you're gonna need a lot of Verdi-Care. And even then, it's only going to do a so-so job. Even Thad will tell you that it works best on "light verdigris" - and what you got, aint light ! My point JCro is, again, why bother ? Leaving the verdigris there is NOT going to hurt anything ! By removing it all you're going to see is the pitting and discoloration that has already been caused underneath it. And it's all not gonna be removed to begin with. But if you think "that" will look better, then have at it. As for your Capital Plastic holder idea - OK. But then what are ya gonna do ? It won't change anything, it won't stop anything. You're still going to have to solve the proper storage issue, and you can only do that by doing what I've already described. But if you like the idea, again, have at it.
It looks like that piece of copper will fit into a glass 13x9 baking pan (14x10 cents @ .75" each + 'tween material) - buy some cheap extra virgin olive oil and pour it on to cover the metal by about 1/2" or 1" - cover the whole dish to keep out additional crud and let it sit undisturbed for weeks or months - work the oxidation deposits gently with a toothpick and continue soaking in oil until satisfied with the new and 'improved' copper strip
The capital plastics holder I make is just for show. I get plastic from Johnson plastics and can etch in information, drill holes in the corners, and buy capitals plastic screws. I figure i jusy want To try something to get some of it off. Thanks!
I am going to call NGC on Monday. And they do actually slab strips, but i imagine not the one I have.
Removing verdigris has been discussed on here ad infinitum. Other than Verdicare (expensive for this much unless @BadThad wants to sponsor you) the standard treatment is soaking in sodium sesquicarbonate https://www.cointalk.com/threads/co...arbonate-for-bronze-disease-treatment.330033/ which I think would remove the toning also. PS, it you aren't concerned about light scratching, the Bar Keeper's Friend is a good idea.
Do not use xylene unless you are outside and have a very big fan. If you are in high school take it to a chem teacher and call it a special project. The container that would we large enough to hold the whole sheet would take a lot of zy. Between the science end and the historical/educational end you could do a paper on it for one of your classes. How coins are made would work. Have some fun with it. By the way, it's a great get. I have two small dime strips; no I didn't get it slabbed. Got it from a chap in Florida while I was on a golf course. He joined us and we had a threesome on the course. I asked him what he did. Turned out he worked for the company that supplied the mint with planchets. I asked him to send me something and two weeks later I received two small strips in the mail. A very generous and thoughtful gesture. I gave up golf a long time ago. Never played well anyway.
It is my impression that there is pretty tight security at US mints. I have personally known 2 men who worked there as police. Employees are not allowed to take stuff out, I think, meaning not only "money" but any metal odds and ends. That punched out planchet strip could have been salvaged at a later time, at the location where it went to be remelted.
I asked about that one time. I think the answer was it wasn't cost effective. The mint didn't melt/make their own planchet strips they had the manufactured for them. And it would cost too much to ship the webbing back. Something like that.
That thing is huge and nasty looking, I like it the way it is now. JCro57 make sure your tetanus shot is up to date.
Just saw this thread - It looks like a US Cent planchet strip. Try acetone on it to remove the verdigris. It is larger than most - I believe I have one about this size too, in my 'collection' of unpunched and punched planchet strips.