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<p>[QUOTE="The_Cave_Troll, post: 118321, member: 1674"]First off, I do a fair bit of selling on eBay and am a power seller. I sell mainly trading cards and coins and my observations below are based on my experience only. I hope it helps you.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>As a bidder I am rarely influenced by offers like that, but you may find it successful, I just don't know.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>There is no official eBay penalty for refusing to sell an item at the hammer price after an auction ends, but I don't recommend it. The penalty is that your buyer will leave you nasty feedback, which can be VERY damaging to a seller, since future potential bidders will see it and avoid your auctions (rightly so). If you see that an item is going to close for much less than it's real value (or its value to you) then you can cancel all the bids and end the listing early, in which case there will be no winning bidder and therefore no one to leave you bad feedback. You will avoid the final value fees from eBay, but you will lose your listing fees with no recourse. One other thing to think about is that the vast majority of bidding on your auctions is during the final 3 minutes of your listing, so be patient, you may be pleasantly surprised by the last second bids.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>I recommend selling them individually. It takes more time and effort, but if you offer a good combined shipping discount, then the people who want a few of your sets will bid on them. Just make sure that you put a link to your other auctions in your listing. You will make more this way, in my experience. Lots just don't sell as well as individually listed items.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>yes, auctions can last 1, 3, 5, 7, or 10 days. The longer the auction, the better in my experience. Seven day auctions are the standard and even though the 10 day auctions are "better" they are more expensive and IMO they are prohibitatively expensive except on rather valuable coins. (you will have to decide what is valuable enough to warrant the additional cost).</p><p><br /></p><p>Auctions during the school year (August-April) should be scheduled to end between 6PM and Midnight Eastern time (3-9 PM eBay time) on Saturday or Sunday and during the summer they should be scheduled during the same time intervals but scheduled to end on a Monday or Tuesday. Those are the times when the most people are on eBay and since the vast majority of bidding (that matters) is during the final few minutes of an auction, then you want to have your auctions ending while the most people are available.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Listing fees are based on the opening bid price and reserve and photo options that you choose. I recommend that you start all of your listings at less than a dollar to entice more bidders. I firmly believe in this and in fact I start ALL of my listings at 1¢. You will ocassionally have an item end for less than it's worth, but I've found that this is more than made up for by the extra that is made by starting all of my auctions at a low price.</p><p><br /></p><p>The final value fees range from 5.25% of the hammer price (for items under $25) to 1.5% of the hammer price (for items over $1000). </p><p><br /></p><p>The full list of eBay fees can be found <a href="http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html" target="_blank" class="externalLink ProxyLink" data-proxy-href="http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html" rel="nofollow">here</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Yes, it matters greatly! I don't buy from newbies, it is just too risky!! I can't overstress this point. If you want to sell on eBay it helps to have a record, even if that is just a few months of buying before you start listing. Also, newbies MUST accept ALL forms of PayPal. This will incur additional fees, but it provides your buyers with some protection, that will entice more bidders. Be aware that PayPal has some requirements for their "Seller Protection Policy" and you would be wise to follow them. This includes only accepting Paypal payments from the US, Canada, and the UK; and only shipping to the buyer's confirmed address (and denying payments from people with unconfirmed addresses); and always using delivery confirmation or USP/FedEx Tracking numbers. Just be sure that you state the requirements in the payment/shipping section of your listing.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>No reserve is better. Most bidders are turned off when they see the "you are the high bidder, but the reserve not met" notice. If you feel you have to have a reserve to protect yourself, then be sure to list exactly what it is in your listing, so that people don't get frustrated trying to figure out what it is and just ignore your auction.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>PayPal charges 30¢ plus 3% of the amount transferred. That charge is removed from the transfer amount, so the seller eats this fee.</p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p><br /></p><p>Good Luck![/QUOTE]</p><p><br /></p>
[QUOTE="The_Cave_Troll, post: 118321, member: 1674"]First off, I do a fair bit of selling on eBay and am a power seller. I sell mainly trading cards and coins and my observations below are based on my experience only. I hope it helps you. As a bidder I am rarely influenced by offers like that, but you may find it successful, I just don't know. There is no official eBay penalty for refusing to sell an item at the hammer price after an auction ends, but I don't recommend it. The penalty is that your buyer will leave you nasty feedback, which can be VERY damaging to a seller, since future potential bidders will see it and avoid your auctions (rightly so). If you see that an item is going to close for much less than it's real value (or its value to you) then you can cancel all the bids and end the listing early, in which case there will be no winning bidder and therefore no one to leave you bad feedback. You will avoid the final value fees from eBay, but you will lose your listing fees with no recourse. One other thing to think about is that the vast majority of bidding on your auctions is during the final 3 minutes of your listing, so be patient, you may be pleasantly surprised by the last second bids. I recommend selling them individually. It takes more time and effort, but if you offer a good combined shipping discount, then the people who want a few of your sets will bid on them. Just make sure that you put a link to your other auctions in your listing. You will make more this way, in my experience. Lots just don't sell as well as individually listed items. yes, auctions can last 1, 3, 5, 7, or 10 days. The longer the auction, the better in my experience. Seven day auctions are the standard and even though the 10 day auctions are "better" they are more expensive and IMO they are prohibitatively expensive except on rather valuable coins. (you will have to decide what is valuable enough to warrant the additional cost). Auctions during the school year (August-April) should be scheduled to end between 6PM and Midnight Eastern time (3-9 PM eBay time) on Saturday or Sunday and during the summer they should be scheduled during the same time intervals but scheduled to end on a Monday or Tuesday. Those are the times when the most people are on eBay and since the vast majority of bidding (that matters) is during the final few minutes of an auction, then you want to have your auctions ending while the most people are available. Listing fees are based on the opening bid price and reserve and photo options that you choose. I recommend that you start all of your listings at less than a dollar to entice more bidders. I firmly believe in this and in fact I start ALL of my listings at 1¢. You will ocassionally have an item end for less than it's worth, but I've found that this is more than made up for by the extra that is made by starting all of my auctions at a low price. The final value fees range from 5.25% of the hammer price (for items under $25) to 1.5% of the hammer price (for items over $1000). The full list of eBay fees can be found [URL="http://pages.ebay.com/help/sell/fees.html"]here[/URL]. Yes, it matters greatly! I don't buy from newbies, it is just too risky!! I can't overstress this point. If you want to sell on eBay it helps to have a record, even if that is just a few months of buying before you start listing. Also, newbies MUST accept ALL forms of PayPal. This will incur additional fees, but it provides your buyers with some protection, that will entice more bidders. Be aware that PayPal has some requirements for their "Seller Protection Policy" and you would be wise to follow them. This includes only accepting Paypal payments from the US, Canada, and the UK; and only shipping to the buyer's confirmed address (and denying payments from people with unconfirmed addresses); and always using delivery confirmation or USP/FedEx Tracking numbers. Just be sure that you state the requirements in the payment/shipping section of your listing. No reserve is better. Most bidders are turned off when they see the "you are the high bidder, but the reserve not met" notice. If you feel you have to have a reserve to protect yourself, then be sure to list exactly what it is in your listing, so that people don't get frustrated trying to figure out what it is and just ignore your auction. PayPal charges 30¢ plus 3% of the amount transferred. That charge is removed from the transfer amount, so the seller eats this fee. Good Luck![/QUOTE]
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